What Makes Classic Car Insurance Special
By: Gray Rollins
Anyone who owns a vintage vehicle or a collection of enduringly stylish classic cars knows that a standard automobile insurance policy can't adequately cover the specific needs of someone who drives a classic vehicle. A classic car owner is more likely than a standard driver to make a claim for repainting after a tiny scratch, for example; whereas a typical driver will be much more likely to get into a highway pile-up than a classic car owner. The habits and requirements of the drivers who spends time behind the wheel of a classic 1950s Ford are obviously quite different from those of a driver who gets around in a used 1997 Taurus; so it makes plenty of sense that insurance companies would create policies specifically for drivers who own vintage cars.
One of the most useful facets of many classic car insurance policies has to do with the idea of flexible usage. This unique idea allows drivers to attain full coverage at a variable rate depending on how often they drive their car and in what situations. Most drivers with antique automobiles drive their vehicles over less than one thousand miles each year, but some collectors drive up to five thousand miles a year in their prized cars. Some drivers are extremely careful about distance because of its potential wear and tear on the vehicle, but just as many classic car enthusiasts are more concerned about what kind of situation they are driving in than how far they are driving.
Many vintage car owners only take their precious vehicles out for special events like auto shows or parades, but there are some drivers who enjoy taking the occasional drive outside of the umbrella that these events provide. With an insurance policy that supports flexible usage, a driver can pay only for the coverage that he or she needs to cover his or her classic car driving habits. This means that a driver who enjoys a leisurely weekend afternoon of driving through town in his or her car will be able to do so without risking the investment that the car represents, but also that a driver who only starts the engine during a special event will not have to pay extra money for open road privileges that he or she won't use.
In addition to what is and is not covered, there are many conveniences that a classic car owner can enjoy by having classic car insurance instead of a standard auto policy. For one thing, having the agent who is responsible for the policy be knowledgeable about and sensitive to the needs of classic car owners can save quite a bit of hassle and phone time. Vintage car collectors are understandably very selective about where they get their cars repaired, and often will be unwilling to let anyone but their personally trusted mechanic look at their car. The reasons for this fact will be obvious to an agent who understands the needs and desires of people who own classic cars, but for an agent who is not experienced with these kinds of customers it can be a difficult fact to swallow.
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
Monday, January 22, 2007
Saturday, January 20, 2007
Motorcycle Wheel Repair
Motorcycle Wheel Repair
by: Tim Gowens
Motorcycle wheels can be repaired just as easily as any other alloy wheel. The process is the same, but requires a different machine, because most motorcycle wheels have a "pressed in" barring that remains with the wheel.
As they say, necessity is the mother of invention. So Metro Wheels converted an old brake lathe to a state-of-the-art motorcycle wheel repair machine. All our hard work has been worth it, as the new custom repair machine allows for the barring that is pressed in and accommodates most wheel sizes. The wheel is centered on a shaft and then heated to ensure smooth movement under hydraulic pressure.
Repair vs. Replace
Why invest in motorcycle wheel repairs? Because replacing OEM motorcycle rims and wheels can range from $350 to $2,000 per wheel. So those who didn’t want to spend that kind of money began asking about having them "pressed" back out - and the motorcycle wheel repairs industry was born.
So long as safety isn’t an issue (that is, when a wheel can be repaired by a professional technician without jeopardizing the lives of the riders who are relying on the wheel to do its job), then alloy motorcycle wheel repair is an excellent choice for economy and cosmetic restoration. But when a wheel has been damaged severely, Metro Wheels will not compromise your safety: if there’s any question, we’ll err on the side of not repairing what could lead to serious injury.
Our Team of Experts
One of the better-known motorcycle wheel repair businesses in the country is Metro Wheels, Inc. in Marietta, Georgia, just north of Atlanta. Metro has one of the largest wheel repair facilities and wheel networking capacity in the country, with the expert team to repair alloy wheels quickly and safely.
At Metro Wheels, we teamed up with the sharpest engineers to design a state-of-the-art wheel repair facility. Our repair processes assure 95-100% wheel accuracy at completion.
Motorcycle wheel repair in the Atlanta area has been saturated with many companies claiming that they can fix any wheel. But the truth is that many of them are "fly by the night" companies with a sledgehammer and a torch. They can bend out a wheel, but most cannot check it for accuracy because they do not have a proper way of "spinning" the wheel. This is not the correct way to fix any wheel.
Some can make the wheel unsafe by not properly applying consistent pressures in a specific way with an exact heat. They stress crack the wheel beyond safety standards and call it a repaired wheel. But you could be jeopardizing your safety by using someone without proper experience.
Because we have been in business for over 15 years, our experience in motorcycle wheel repairs exceeds most shops’. Our aluminum wheel repair specialists can repair most wheels that have been curbed, scraped up, cracked or chemically damaged, providing excellent structural and cosmetic repairs; and our professional, certified welders are second to none.
Metro Wheels uses its own engineered equipment and guaranteed processes to return damaged, scraped and, in most cases, cracked wheels back to their original factory specifications. Because your safety is our highest priority, we will not repair any alloy wheel that cannot be safely ridden on after repair
Metro Wheels’ Repair Process
The repair process is straightforward. First, we mount the wheel accurately on a motorcycle axial simulator. With the proper heat, consistent hydraulic pressure and light vibrations under pressure, the alloy wheel will move - without cracking - back to its original condition. If there is a crack that can’t be seen by the naked eye (under chrome or paint), it will instantly pop out; our certified welders will then fill and repair the crack. After the wheel has cooled, it will retain its original strength. Heat, consistent pressure and vibration are key to an excellent wheel repair.
When a wheel is delivered to Metro Wheels, it is either dropped off by the owner, shipped in or picked up in the metro Atlanta area from our wholesale customers. We generate a work order for each individual wheel, detailing the customer’s information and any special instructions. Each wheel is assigned a unique work order number that is engraved on the inside of the rim, so that Metro can track its history precisely. This number also makes it much easier to track the wheel throughout the repair process.
Once identified, each wheel is washed thoroughly to remove all road dust and dirt, because the dust could be hiding additional scratches, gouges or cracks. Metro uses a pressure washer system with a diluted acid-based cleaning compound that will not damage a wheel’s existing finish.
This is particularly important because brake dust removal is essential to determining the level of damage to a wheel. But it must be done correctly, because wheels with a polished or anodized finish can be damaged if the wrong washing compound is used. For instance, a two-piece wheel with a bright lip that is not chromed is typically an anodized finish, a chemical treatment that is very hard to see. If the wrong cleaner or acid is used on such a finish, the wheel surface will be streaked; however, this anodized finish can be stripped off and any scratches buffed out.
Once thoroughly cleaned, one of our expert technicians performs a complete inspection of the wheel for radial and lateral runout. Radial runout is vertical, and Metro measures to see just how much the wheel is out of round with a micrometer gauge that measures to 1/1,000 of an inch. If a wheel has 5/1,000 of an inch radial runout, you could put a dial indicator on the wheel and then spin the wheel. The distance the wheel traveled up and down while spinning would be 5/1,000 of an inch both in the high and low position - or swing.
Lateral runout, on the other hand, is how much the damaged wheel will wobble from side to side. On some larger diameter wheels subjected to a hard pothole hit or curb, the wheel will be bent and, if hit hard enough, it will bend and twist the spokes. Most lateral runout can be corrected with pressure on the back of the wheel. But when the lateral runout cannot be corrected, the wheel is not repairable.
Lateral runout is the hardest type of repair to make. It also happens to be the most deceptive, because while a wheel may look like it has only minor rim damage, it can actually be fairly significant and not easily seen to the naked eye unless the wheel is spinning.
The next point of inspection is for alloy defects such as curb rashes and cracks. Metro recommends that the tires be removed for this inspection because most damage cannot be seen otherwise. Metro wheels will not remove the tire for you. You will need to have the tire removed and please keep the barring in the wheel (if it is loose). We will bring it back to its original condition ready to have the tire re-mounted. You will be riding again in no time.
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
by: Tim Gowens
Motorcycle wheels can be repaired just as easily as any other alloy wheel. The process is the same, but requires a different machine, because most motorcycle wheels have a "pressed in" barring that remains with the wheel.
As they say, necessity is the mother of invention. So Metro Wheels converted an old brake lathe to a state-of-the-art motorcycle wheel repair machine. All our hard work has been worth it, as the new custom repair machine allows for the barring that is pressed in and accommodates most wheel sizes. The wheel is centered on a shaft and then heated to ensure smooth movement under hydraulic pressure.
Repair vs. Replace
Why invest in motorcycle wheel repairs? Because replacing OEM motorcycle rims and wheels can range from $350 to $2,000 per wheel. So those who didn’t want to spend that kind of money began asking about having them "pressed" back out - and the motorcycle wheel repairs industry was born.
So long as safety isn’t an issue (that is, when a wheel can be repaired by a professional technician without jeopardizing the lives of the riders who are relying on the wheel to do its job), then alloy motorcycle wheel repair is an excellent choice for economy and cosmetic restoration. But when a wheel has been damaged severely, Metro Wheels will not compromise your safety: if there’s any question, we’ll err on the side of not repairing what could lead to serious injury.
Our Team of Experts
One of the better-known motorcycle wheel repair businesses in the country is Metro Wheels, Inc. in Marietta, Georgia, just north of Atlanta. Metro has one of the largest wheel repair facilities and wheel networking capacity in the country, with the expert team to repair alloy wheels quickly and safely.
At Metro Wheels, we teamed up with the sharpest engineers to design a state-of-the-art wheel repair facility. Our repair processes assure 95-100% wheel accuracy at completion.
Motorcycle wheel repair in the Atlanta area has been saturated with many companies claiming that they can fix any wheel. But the truth is that many of them are "fly by the night" companies with a sledgehammer and a torch. They can bend out a wheel, but most cannot check it for accuracy because they do not have a proper way of "spinning" the wheel. This is not the correct way to fix any wheel.
Some can make the wheel unsafe by not properly applying consistent pressures in a specific way with an exact heat. They stress crack the wheel beyond safety standards and call it a repaired wheel. But you could be jeopardizing your safety by using someone without proper experience.
Because we have been in business for over 15 years, our experience in motorcycle wheel repairs exceeds most shops’. Our aluminum wheel repair specialists can repair most wheels that have been curbed, scraped up, cracked or chemically damaged, providing excellent structural and cosmetic repairs; and our professional, certified welders are second to none.
Metro Wheels uses its own engineered equipment and guaranteed processes to return damaged, scraped and, in most cases, cracked wheels back to their original factory specifications. Because your safety is our highest priority, we will not repair any alloy wheel that cannot be safely ridden on after repair
Metro Wheels’ Repair Process
The repair process is straightforward. First, we mount the wheel accurately on a motorcycle axial simulator. With the proper heat, consistent hydraulic pressure and light vibrations under pressure, the alloy wheel will move - without cracking - back to its original condition. If there is a crack that can’t be seen by the naked eye (under chrome or paint), it will instantly pop out; our certified welders will then fill and repair the crack. After the wheel has cooled, it will retain its original strength. Heat, consistent pressure and vibration are key to an excellent wheel repair.
When a wheel is delivered to Metro Wheels, it is either dropped off by the owner, shipped in or picked up in the metro Atlanta area from our wholesale customers. We generate a work order for each individual wheel, detailing the customer’s information and any special instructions. Each wheel is assigned a unique work order number that is engraved on the inside of the rim, so that Metro can track its history precisely. This number also makes it much easier to track the wheel throughout the repair process.
Once identified, each wheel is washed thoroughly to remove all road dust and dirt, because the dust could be hiding additional scratches, gouges or cracks. Metro uses a pressure washer system with a diluted acid-based cleaning compound that will not damage a wheel’s existing finish.
This is particularly important because brake dust removal is essential to determining the level of damage to a wheel. But it must be done correctly, because wheels with a polished or anodized finish can be damaged if the wrong washing compound is used. For instance, a two-piece wheel with a bright lip that is not chromed is typically an anodized finish, a chemical treatment that is very hard to see. If the wrong cleaner or acid is used on such a finish, the wheel surface will be streaked; however, this anodized finish can be stripped off and any scratches buffed out.
Once thoroughly cleaned, one of our expert technicians performs a complete inspection of the wheel for radial and lateral runout. Radial runout is vertical, and Metro measures to see just how much the wheel is out of round with a micrometer gauge that measures to 1/1,000 of an inch. If a wheel has 5/1,000 of an inch radial runout, you could put a dial indicator on the wheel and then spin the wheel. The distance the wheel traveled up and down while spinning would be 5/1,000 of an inch both in the high and low position - or swing.
Lateral runout, on the other hand, is how much the damaged wheel will wobble from side to side. On some larger diameter wheels subjected to a hard pothole hit or curb, the wheel will be bent and, if hit hard enough, it will bend and twist the spokes. Most lateral runout can be corrected with pressure on the back of the wheel. But when the lateral runout cannot be corrected, the wheel is not repairable.
Lateral runout is the hardest type of repair to make. It also happens to be the most deceptive, because while a wheel may look like it has only minor rim damage, it can actually be fairly significant and not easily seen to the naked eye unless the wheel is spinning.
The next point of inspection is for alloy defects such as curb rashes and cracks. Metro recommends that the tires be removed for this inspection because most damage cannot be seen otherwise. Metro wheels will not remove the tire for you. You will need to have the tire removed and please keep the barring in the wheel (if it is loose). We will bring it back to its original condition ready to have the tire re-mounted. You will be riding again in no time.
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
Friday, January 19, 2007
Where To Find Classic Car Parts
Where To Find Classic Car Parts
by: Joel Noah
Classic car parts are not easy to come by. But if you have finally been able to purchase the classic car you’ve always dreamed of, finding the classic car parts to restore and accessorize it may be a high on your priority list.
Whether you have a muscle car, an antique or a vintage model, you will inevitably find the need to replace and restore some of your car parts. Classic car parts are not as readily available as for the cars that are still in production. You can’t just walk into a dealership and place your order because the parts are no longer being made. But with a little digging, they can be found.
Some places to start your search include:
Online Auctions
Online auction sites, such as Ebay, are probably the easiest place to begin your search for classic car parts. If you’ve seen the ads that Ebay has “It,” you know this is true. Ebay Motors has many listings for hard to find vehicles and classic car parts. You’ll have to cover the shipping charges, so that is something to consider when purchasing larger items.
Swap Meets
Finding a local swap meet may be just the thing you need to locate the classic car parts you need. They are great places to find older model accessories and other outdated items.
Classic Car Part Dealer Publications
Often times you can find the parts you are looking for in car part dealer magazines. The only drawback here is that you will probably have to spend top dollar. This option could be used as a last resort though if you are unable to find a specific part anywhere else. Exhaust all other possibilities first if money is tight.
Clubs and Organizations
Clubs and organizations exist for as many hobbies that people can think up. Certainly, there are a fair number of clubs and organizations geared toward car enthusiasts. Locating and joining one such club may prove beneficial in your hunt for classic car parts. You will be able to make connections with other people who share your interest.
In the Internet age, it is also possible to find a club or organization centered on classic car parts by doing an online search. Try searching Yahoo groups and you are likely to find a list of clubs you could join. Again, making connections with people who share your interest in classic car parts may lead you to a dealer or another source from which you can purchase classic car parts.
Junkyards
Maybe you don’t picture yourself hanging around a junkyard to find used classic car parts, but you may be able to find a diamond in the rough. If you have never used this type of service before, it could be worthwhile to check it out. Everything is computerized and usually a visit or a phone call is all you need to check and see if they have the part or accessory that you need for your precious investment.
Of course you will want to take good care of your classic car to limit the number of parts that you will need to search for. The less time you spend tracking down parts, the more time you can spend enjoying the car of your dreams.
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
by: Joel Noah
Classic car parts are not easy to come by. But if you have finally been able to purchase the classic car you’ve always dreamed of, finding the classic car parts to restore and accessorize it may be a high on your priority list.
Whether you have a muscle car, an antique or a vintage model, you will inevitably find the need to replace and restore some of your car parts. Classic car parts are not as readily available as for the cars that are still in production. You can’t just walk into a dealership and place your order because the parts are no longer being made. But with a little digging, they can be found.
Some places to start your search include:
Online Auctions
Online auction sites, such as Ebay, are probably the easiest place to begin your search for classic car parts. If you’ve seen the ads that Ebay has “It,” you know this is true. Ebay Motors has many listings for hard to find vehicles and classic car parts. You’ll have to cover the shipping charges, so that is something to consider when purchasing larger items.
Swap Meets
Finding a local swap meet may be just the thing you need to locate the classic car parts you need. They are great places to find older model accessories and other outdated items.
Classic Car Part Dealer Publications
Often times you can find the parts you are looking for in car part dealer magazines. The only drawback here is that you will probably have to spend top dollar. This option could be used as a last resort though if you are unable to find a specific part anywhere else. Exhaust all other possibilities first if money is tight.
Clubs and Organizations
Clubs and organizations exist for as many hobbies that people can think up. Certainly, there are a fair number of clubs and organizations geared toward car enthusiasts. Locating and joining one such club may prove beneficial in your hunt for classic car parts. You will be able to make connections with other people who share your interest.
In the Internet age, it is also possible to find a club or organization centered on classic car parts by doing an online search. Try searching Yahoo groups and you are likely to find a list of clubs you could join. Again, making connections with people who share your interest in classic car parts may lead you to a dealer or another source from which you can purchase classic car parts.
Junkyards
Maybe you don’t picture yourself hanging around a junkyard to find used classic car parts, but you may be able to find a diamond in the rough. If you have never used this type of service before, it could be worthwhile to check it out. Everything is computerized and usually a visit or a phone call is all you need to check and see if they have the part or accessory that you need for your precious investment.
Of course you will want to take good care of your classic car to limit the number of parts that you will need to search for. The less time you spend tracking down parts, the more time you can spend enjoying the car of your dreams.
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
Thursday, January 18, 2007
Winterize Your Classic Car
Winterize Your Classic Car
By: Andrew Holliday
The mercury is dropping and the nights are drawing in. It’s time to start thinking about that ‘investment’ you so eagerly purchased over the summer. Ideally we would all garage our classic cars over the winter, not bringing them out again for their first wax and polish until the following spring. Unfortunately for many of us that is just not an option, so a little bit of preparation early on can save you a lot of heartache later. The two main things you should be thinking about are ensuring that your winter driving is as safe as possible and protecting your classic car from the harsh elements. Here are a few tips to get you on the right track.
Safer Winter Driving
1. Check your Antifreeze/Coolant. Make sure that the type you are using is sufficient for the climate you live in. Check the levels regularly; however always check when the engine is cold. Not only will you get a more accurate measurement but also opening a hot radiator is an extremely dangerous thing to do!
2. Check your tires. You’ll need good tread to get through 6 inches of snow. A change in temperature will make all sorts of parts on your car expand and contract. This includes the air in you tires. Ensure that they are inflated to the correct PSI (pounds per square inch) for your vehicle; this will not only help with traction but will extend the life of your tires. Also remember that the rubber your tires are made from will also contract. Check old tires for cracking and replace if necessary. It’s easier to do it now than on the side of the road in freezing temperatures!
3. Belts and hoses are also likely to expand and contract as the temperature changes. Check them over and change any that show signs of wearing or cracking.
4. Add a gas treatment. Over time water vapor can build up in your gas lines and will freeze when the temperature drops, blocking your fuel lines. A can of fuel treatment early on will remove the moisture and prevent this from happening.
5. Check the condition of your battery. Most auto parts stores and mechanics garages will do this for you free of charge. A hard to start engine can be impossible to start with an old battery, so replace if necessary.
6. Check your spark plugs. While your mechanic is checking your battery have him take a look at the plugs too. Corroded, oxidized or badly aligned spark plugs can also make it impossible to start the car in the morning.
7. Clean or replace your wiper blades. There are many brands of snow blades available that are designed not to stick to the windshield. Not all will work with older cars however, so at the very least, clean the ones you have with an alcohol based cleaner. Also check your washer fluid level and keep it topped up. Make sure to use a washer fluid that has some antifreeze in it.
8. Stock your car with some essential and emergency items.
· Flashlight (check the batteries!)
· Ice scraper
· Well stocked First Aid Kit
· A blanket, hat and gloves in case you brake down without the engine running and need to keep warm.
· Reflective triangle warning sign or flares
· Jumper cables
Protecting That Investment
1. Wash and dry your car regularly. The salt on the roads will wreak havoc on your bodywork and before you know it that cancer of all cars, rust, will be well and truly set in. So give it a good clean, underside included, as often as possible.
2. Check all fluids regularly; older cars and older gaskets have a habit of springing leaks throughout the winter months. It’s easier to top up the fluid than replace a major part that has seized up. If you find a constant leak, get it fixed or fix it yourself. You knew there would be a few running repairs when you bought your car, so no complaining about the cost. Remember it’s all about keeping that classic car on the road.
3. Apply a good wax early on. A good wax applied in several layers will help keep that ‘all original bodywork’ you paid so much extra for, in great shape come sun, snow, rain or shine.
4. Drive defensively. Just because you know you don’t have anti-lock brakes and traction control doesn’t mean everybody else does. Those one off parts are just as hard to come by regardless of whose fault it was they got wrecked in the first place. Drive with others in mind and try to think ahead. Remember you can’t think for the idiot in front of or behind you, but you can try and get out of the way if they come skidding towards you!
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
By: Andrew Holliday
The mercury is dropping and the nights are drawing in. It’s time to start thinking about that ‘investment’ you so eagerly purchased over the summer. Ideally we would all garage our classic cars over the winter, not bringing them out again for their first wax and polish until the following spring. Unfortunately for many of us that is just not an option, so a little bit of preparation early on can save you a lot of heartache later. The two main things you should be thinking about are ensuring that your winter driving is as safe as possible and protecting your classic car from the harsh elements. Here are a few tips to get you on the right track.
Safer Winter Driving
1. Check your Antifreeze/Coolant. Make sure that the type you are using is sufficient for the climate you live in. Check the levels regularly; however always check when the engine is cold. Not only will you get a more accurate measurement but also opening a hot radiator is an extremely dangerous thing to do!
2. Check your tires. You’ll need good tread to get through 6 inches of snow. A change in temperature will make all sorts of parts on your car expand and contract. This includes the air in you tires. Ensure that they are inflated to the correct PSI (pounds per square inch) for your vehicle; this will not only help with traction but will extend the life of your tires. Also remember that the rubber your tires are made from will also contract. Check old tires for cracking and replace if necessary. It’s easier to do it now than on the side of the road in freezing temperatures!
3. Belts and hoses are also likely to expand and contract as the temperature changes. Check them over and change any that show signs of wearing or cracking.
4. Add a gas treatment. Over time water vapor can build up in your gas lines and will freeze when the temperature drops, blocking your fuel lines. A can of fuel treatment early on will remove the moisture and prevent this from happening.
5. Check the condition of your battery. Most auto parts stores and mechanics garages will do this for you free of charge. A hard to start engine can be impossible to start with an old battery, so replace if necessary.
6. Check your spark plugs. While your mechanic is checking your battery have him take a look at the plugs too. Corroded, oxidized or badly aligned spark plugs can also make it impossible to start the car in the morning.
7. Clean or replace your wiper blades. There are many brands of snow blades available that are designed not to stick to the windshield. Not all will work with older cars however, so at the very least, clean the ones you have with an alcohol based cleaner. Also check your washer fluid level and keep it topped up. Make sure to use a washer fluid that has some antifreeze in it.
8. Stock your car with some essential and emergency items.
· Flashlight (check the batteries!)
· Ice scraper
· Well stocked First Aid Kit
· A blanket, hat and gloves in case you brake down without the engine running and need to keep warm.
· Reflective triangle warning sign or flares
· Jumper cables
Protecting That Investment
1. Wash and dry your car regularly. The salt on the roads will wreak havoc on your bodywork and before you know it that cancer of all cars, rust, will be well and truly set in. So give it a good clean, underside included, as often as possible.
2. Check all fluids regularly; older cars and older gaskets have a habit of springing leaks throughout the winter months. It’s easier to top up the fluid than replace a major part that has seized up. If you find a constant leak, get it fixed or fix it yourself. You knew there would be a few running repairs when you bought your car, so no complaining about the cost. Remember it’s all about keeping that classic car on the road.
3. Apply a good wax early on. A good wax applied in several layers will help keep that ‘all original bodywork’ you paid so much extra for, in great shape come sun, snow, rain or shine.
4. Drive defensively. Just because you know you don’t have anti-lock brakes and traction control doesn’t mean everybody else does. Those one off parts are just as hard to come by regardless of whose fault it was they got wrecked in the first place. Drive with others in mind and try to think ahead. Remember you can’t think for the idiot in front of or behind you, but you can try and get out of the way if they come skidding towards you!
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
Tuesday, January 16, 2007
How Pop-Culture Collectibles Can Increase Your Online Auction Profits
How Pop-Culture Collectibles Can Increase Your Online Auction Profits
by: David Espino
How Pop Culture collectibles can increase your Online Auction profits
With the increasingly competitive environment for products to sell in the online auction arena, sellers are getting more creative as to the items they purchase for re-sale.
While some of the Dutch Auction items that are frequently sold on eBay will always maintain their commodity status and always sell well, Pop Culture collectibles will usually generate a higher profit-per-item simply because of a combination of two forces.
Scarcity and Desirability.
Pop Culture collectibles can run the gamut from a special early edition pair of Levis to a rare Coca Cola collectible.
However, when I discuss Pop Culture items in this article, I will limit the definition to only the types of collectibles that I’ve managed to have any experience with and that would be T.V., Movie and Toy collectibles.
Obviously, the category of Pop Culture collectibles is much bigger than this limited definition, but in the interests of keeping this a knowledgeable article, I will focus on the limited definition here.
One of my first experiences with Pop Culture collectibles was with a box of unused "The Fonz" posters that I found at an antiques swap meet a few years ago.
I came across this box at a seller’s stand. It had one poster taped to the outside of the box and the price tag on the box said $5 each.
I asked the seller "How much are the posters?", not ever assuming that the price on the box was the current price.
The seller replied with "Three bucks each."
Being new to eBay and wanting to experiment, I counted the posters, which were still in shrink wrap material. There were 25 posters in the box. The box looked like it had been loaded and unloaded too many times, but the posters were in perfect condition.
So I asked the seller, "How much for the whole box?"
He asked, "How many are there?"
I told him, "25".
He said, "How about $40 for the box?"
I said, "O.K.", and handed him $40.
I posted an auction for one of the Fonz posters that week. It was a large photo of "The Fonz for Prez", sort of a campaign poster with Fonzie in his traditional Leather jacket, thumbs up and a "Sit on it" button on his jacket.
The auction was set to close on a Sunday, and when I checked it on Friday, it was up to $22 !
I was shocked and happy at the same time.
On Sunday, I took my family out to dinner and got home to see that the auction had closed at an astonishing $42.50 !
That experience was the one that cemented me in the area of Pop Culture collectibles!
I continued to sell the Fonz posters, one at a time (so as not to "flood the market") at prices from the $42.50 high to a low of $12.50.
My estimate for gross sales is somewhere around $450 for that box of posters.
This type of profit exists in the area of Pop Culture collectibles, but it does take some guts to seek out and "gamble" on these types of deals.
I had no idea what the posters were worth when I purchased them, but I had a good hunch, which proved to be correct.
Other Pop Culture deals I’ve made, most found at antique swap meets:
M.A.S.H. action figures - purchased a box of 28 of them for $50, sold them individually for between $9.00 and $15.50
Star Wars Figures - purchased a box of special limited edition figures for $120 at a regular swap meet, sold the box to a Star Wars dealer for $2,100.
Evel Knievel figure, mint in box, purchased for $10, sold for $115.
Alien 3 movie theater poster (massive, about 4’ tall by 12‘ wide), found at a yard sale for $10, sold on eBay for $50.
Bionic Woman action figure, mint in box, purchased for $30, sold for $85.
In each of these cases, I had no idea what the value was, I just went with my gut. But the fact that they were Pop Culture collectibles made it much easier to take that chance and buy the items.
Another solution many sellers use is to have their spouse at home, ready at the computer to do price research on unknown items!
Armed with a cell phone and a significant other at home doing research, your results will be less of a risk and more fun, too!
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
by: David Espino
How Pop Culture collectibles can increase your Online Auction profits
With the increasingly competitive environment for products to sell in the online auction arena, sellers are getting more creative as to the items they purchase for re-sale.
While some of the Dutch Auction items that are frequently sold on eBay will always maintain their commodity status and always sell well, Pop Culture collectibles will usually generate a higher profit-per-item simply because of a combination of two forces.
Scarcity and Desirability.
Pop Culture collectibles can run the gamut from a special early edition pair of Levis to a rare Coca Cola collectible.
However, when I discuss Pop Culture items in this article, I will limit the definition to only the types of collectibles that I’ve managed to have any experience with and that would be T.V., Movie and Toy collectibles.
Obviously, the category of Pop Culture collectibles is much bigger than this limited definition, but in the interests of keeping this a knowledgeable article, I will focus on the limited definition here.
One of my first experiences with Pop Culture collectibles was with a box of unused "The Fonz" posters that I found at an antiques swap meet a few years ago.
I came across this box at a seller’s stand. It had one poster taped to the outside of the box and the price tag on the box said $5 each.
I asked the seller "How much are the posters?", not ever assuming that the price on the box was the current price.
The seller replied with "Three bucks each."
Being new to eBay and wanting to experiment, I counted the posters, which were still in shrink wrap material. There were 25 posters in the box. The box looked like it had been loaded and unloaded too many times, but the posters were in perfect condition.
So I asked the seller, "How much for the whole box?"
He asked, "How many are there?"
I told him, "25".
He said, "How about $40 for the box?"
I said, "O.K.", and handed him $40.
I posted an auction for one of the Fonz posters that week. It was a large photo of "The Fonz for Prez", sort of a campaign poster with Fonzie in his traditional Leather jacket, thumbs up and a "Sit on it" button on his jacket.
The auction was set to close on a Sunday, and when I checked it on Friday, it was up to $22 !
I was shocked and happy at the same time.
On Sunday, I took my family out to dinner and got home to see that the auction had closed at an astonishing $42.50 !
That experience was the one that cemented me in the area of Pop Culture collectibles!
I continued to sell the Fonz posters, one at a time (so as not to "flood the market") at prices from the $42.50 high to a low of $12.50.
My estimate for gross sales is somewhere around $450 for that box of posters.
This type of profit exists in the area of Pop Culture collectibles, but it does take some guts to seek out and "gamble" on these types of deals.
I had no idea what the posters were worth when I purchased them, but I had a good hunch, which proved to be correct.
Other Pop Culture deals I’ve made, most found at antique swap meets:
M.A.S.H. action figures - purchased a box of 28 of them for $50, sold them individually for between $9.00 and $15.50
Star Wars Figures - purchased a box of special limited edition figures for $120 at a regular swap meet, sold the box to a Star Wars dealer for $2,100.
Evel Knievel figure, mint in box, purchased for $10, sold for $115.
Alien 3 movie theater poster (massive, about 4’ tall by 12‘ wide), found at a yard sale for $10, sold on eBay for $50.
Bionic Woman action figure, mint in box, purchased for $30, sold for $85.
In each of these cases, I had no idea what the value was, I just went with my gut. But the fact that they were Pop Culture collectibles made it much easier to take that chance and buy the items.
Another solution many sellers use is to have their spouse at home, ready at the computer to do price research on unknown items!
Armed with a cell phone and a significant other at home doing research, your results will be less of a risk and more fun, too!
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
Monday, January 15, 2007
Cadillac Convertible Eldorado - From The Early Fifties And Up Till Today
Cadillac Convertible Eldorado - From The Early Fifties And Up Till Today
by: Terry Bolton
Eldorado was a personal luxury model from Cadillac. This model also was the one that had the longest run in the American market.The Eldorado model was the only one sold after the 1998 model year. It was part of the Cadillac line of models from 1953 to 2002 and its main competitors was Buick Riviera and the Mark Series. The name 'Eldorado' is Spanish and translates to 'the gilded one'. The South American Indian tribe chief also had this name It has been said that this chief would wash off the gold dust that was sprinkled in his body by diving into a lake during a ceremony. Another origin of this name are the cities of fabulous riches in South America which inspired European expeditions.
A Brief History
The name 'Eldorado' was proposed for a very special show car built in 1952 for marking Cadillac's Golden Anniversary. Actually, it was the result of an in-house competition that was won by Mary-Ann Zukosky (married name = Marini). Mary-Ann was a secretary in the company's merchandising department. It is also worth mentioning that Palm Springs Life magazine, attributes the name to a resort destination in California's Coachella Valley that was a favorite of General Motors executives, the Eldorado Country Club. Anyway, the name was adopted by the company for a new, limited-edition convertible that was added to the line in 1953.
The Cad models named Eldorado were always near the top of the manufacturers product line although cars bearing the name varied considerably in bodystyle and mechanical layout during this long period. Nevertheless, with exceptions for the Eldorado Brougham models of 1957-1960, the most expensive models were always the opulent, long wheel-based "Series 75" sedans and limousines.
The Development in the 1990s
1992
In 1992, a new Eldorado appeared. It was slightly bigger than its predecessor, but it was so much more adroitly styled that it seemed greatly so. The window glasses were once again frameless, and shortly after introduction Cadillac's excellent new Northstar V8 became available. This combination of sleek styling and increased power seemed more like the great Eldorados and this got good reviews for this model. The sales went up, though never again at record heights. People who purchased this preferred the four door model Cadillac Seville, a trend that was clearly indicated by the sale figures. This automobile continued for the rest of the decade with incremental changes and moderate sales., Its former running mates Toronado and Riviera were discontinued at this time and by the end of the century it was becoming clear that the end of the Eldorado was probably coming as well.
1998
Some minor exterior updates were done for the Eldorado in 1998 as well as a revised interior.
The Swan Song
Cadillac announced that they would end production after the year 2002. Well, this was not just said but done as well: The final ETC model became the most powerful model with an 300 hp engine with front wheel drive. Well, that's not hundred percent true though, because a few cars were produced to mark the end of this proud model in April 2003, cars that were produced in the 1953 convertible colors of red and white. An honorful end of a wonderful car.
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
by: Terry Bolton
Eldorado was a personal luxury model from Cadillac. This model also was the one that had the longest run in the American market.The Eldorado model was the only one sold after the 1998 model year. It was part of the Cadillac line of models from 1953 to 2002 and its main competitors was Buick Riviera and the Mark Series. The name 'Eldorado' is Spanish and translates to 'the gilded one'. The South American Indian tribe chief also had this name It has been said that this chief would wash off the gold dust that was sprinkled in his body by diving into a lake during a ceremony. Another origin of this name are the cities of fabulous riches in South America which inspired European expeditions.
A Brief History
The name 'Eldorado' was proposed for a very special show car built in 1952 for marking Cadillac's Golden Anniversary. Actually, it was the result of an in-house competition that was won by Mary-Ann Zukosky (married name = Marini). Mary-Ann was a secretary in the company's merchandising department. It is also worth mentioning that Palm Springs Life magazine, attributes the name to a resort destination in California's Coachella Valley that was a favorite of General Motors executives, the Eldorado Country Club. Anyway, the name was adopted by the company for a new, limited-edition convertible that was added to the line in 1953.
The Cad models named Eldorado were always near the top of the manufacturers product line although cars bearing the name varied considerably in bodystyle and mechanical layout during this long period. Nevertheless, with exceptions for the Eldorado Brougham models of 1957-1960, the most expensive models were always the opulent, long wheel-based "Series 75" sedans and limousines.
The Development in the 1990s
1992
In 1992, a new Eldorado appeared. It was slightly bigger than its predecessor, but it was so much more adroitly styled that it seemed greatly so. The window glasses were once again frameless, and shortly after introduction Cadillac's excellent new Northstar V8 became available. This combination of sleek styling and increased power seemed more like the great Eldorados and this got good reviews for this model. The sales went up, though never again at record heights. People who purchased this preferred the four door model Cadillac Seville, a trend that was clearly indicated by the sale figures. This automobile continued for the rest of the decade with incremental changes and moderate sales., Its former running mates Toronado and Riviera were discontinued at this time and by the end of the century it was becoming clear that the end of the Eldorado was probably coming as well.
1998
Some minor exterior updates were done for the Eldorado in 1998 as well as a revised interior.
The Swan Song
Cadillac announced that they would end production after the year 2002. Well, this was not just said but done as well: The final ETC model became the most powerful model with an 300 hp engine with front wheel drive. Well, that's not hundred percent true though, because a few cars were produced to mark the end of this proud model in April 2003, cars that were produced in the 1953 convertible colors of red and white. An honorful end of a wonderful car.
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
Monday, January 08, 2007
All About Car Shows: How To Plan In Phases
All About Car Shows: How To Plan In Phases
by: Tonza Borden
Rome was not built in a day and your car show won’t be either. You have to plan your event in phases and execute it in phases. What does that mean? Write everything you want in outline format. Designate a completion date for each item of responsibility. For example, you need to contact car clubs to display vintage cars well in advance of the show date. This becomes your time-line.
When the show day arrives, it will be easier to execute the plan because it was projected in phases. Another example, if you have five teams, divide the project outline among them. Each team will be responsible for its section and meeting the time-line.
Although you are planning your car show to be executed in phases, it is critical to have contingencies in place. In other words: a backup plan to allow for worst-case scenarios such as someone dropping the ball or an unreliable vendor. This does not mean you need to worry about every little negative thing or plan for the worst.
No one can plan for the unknown but when things don’t go as planned, roll with it because it’s show time—and it is a beautiful thing when a plan comes together. Expect a GREAT car show!
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
by: Tonza Borden
Rome was not built in a day and your car show won’t be either. You have to plan your event in phases and execute it in phases. What does that mean? Write everything you want in outline format. Designate a completion date for each item of responsibility. For example, you need to contact car clubs to display vintage cars well in advance of the show date. This becomes your time-line.
When the show day arrives, it will be easier to execute the plan because it was projected in phases. Another example, if you have five teams, divide the project outline among them. Each team will be responsible for its section and meeting the time-line.
Although you are planning your car show to be executed in phases, it is critical to have contingencies in place. In other words: a backup plan to allow for worst-case scenarios such as someone dropping the ball or an unreliable vendor. This does not mean you need to worry about every little negative thing or plan for the worst.
No one can plan for the unknown but when things don’t go as planned, roll with it because it’s show time—and it is a beautiful thing when a plan comes together. Expect a GREAT car show!
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
Sunday, January 07, 2007
All About Car Shows: How To Control Logistics
All About Car Shows: How To Control Logistics
by: Tonza Borden
It’s on! And controlling logistics is the key to managing all of your planning. It is now up to the teams to control their assigned area or task. For example, you are assigned to assist visitors with parking. It is your responsibility to ensure that cars are parked properly in designated areas only. It is critical that teams know clearly what to do because communication and coordination rules the day.
Nuts and Bolts
Controlling logistics start before the first visitor arrives but it does not stop until the last visitor has gone, all equipment is broken down and, the area cleaned to pre-show condition.
Controlling logistics are the nuts and bolts of the car show. It requires everyone to pull together to get it done. It is also critical that team members commit to the duration to fulfill their logistical responsibilities.
Show Time
Finally! Beautiful cars are rolling in with proud owners geared up to show their stuff. Vendors are getting last minute hookup. Teams are on point and excitement is mounting. It’s early yet, but visitors are arriving to get the best parking spaces. Music is bumping and getting everybody in the mood for cruising. The stage is set and the show is ready to rock. Fellow car show enthusiasts, you have done the work and now, “its show time”!
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
by: Tonza Borden
It’s on! And controlling logistics is the key to managing all of your planning. It is now up to the teams to control their assigned area or task. For example, you are assigned to assist visitors with parking. It is your responsibility to ensure that cars are parked properly in designated areas only. It is critical that teams know clearly what to do because communication and coordination rules the day.
Nuts and Bolts
Controlling logistics start before the first visitor arrives but it does not stop until the last visitor has gone, all equipment is broken down and, the area cleaned to pre-show condition.
Controlling logistics are the nuts and bolts of the car show. It requires everyone to pull together to get it done. It is also critical that team members commit to the duration to fulfill their logistical responsibilities.
Show Time
Finally! Beautiful cars are rolling in with proud owners geared up to show their stuff. Vendors are getting last minute hookup. Teams are on point and excitement is mounting. It’s early yet, but visitors are arriving to get the best parking spaces. Music is bumping and getting everybody in the mood for cruising. The stage is set and the show is ready to rock. Fellow car show enthusiasts, you have done the work and now, “its show time”!
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
Friday, January 05, 2007
Cops 'n Rodders For Safety Show
Cops 'n Rodders For Safety Show
by: Kenneth McKinley
Yes, you read that right. It is Cops 'n Rodders and certainly not Cops 'n Robbers.
Cops 'n Rodders is an annual benefit car show that is hosted by the Cuyahoga Community College Western Campus. August 13th is the scheduled date for this year’s Cops 'n Rodders. And 2006 marks the fifth year of the school’s hosting this event.
From nine in the morning up until 3:30 in the afternoon of that day, the Cops 'n Rodders event would be in full swing. And aside from being a benefit car show, it is also going to be a day to campaign and inform people about car and driving safety.
During the whole duration of the car show, attendees would find various things to do. Throughout the event, there would be door prizes and giveaways to be granted for free to those lucky ones. If you are looking for some Volvo S70 performance parts for your vehicle, maybe you will win those at this car show.
Children would also be having a grand time at the Cops 'n Rodders benefit car show. There are activities planned for them like face painting. The first 100 children who would be taking joining the child safety helmet class would be receiving free helmets. But this activity is open for all children.
Other sights to behold and take part of in this benefit car show include a demonstration of K-9 units. This would be headed and facilitated by the North Olmsted Police Department. A D.A.R.E. car unit of the police as well as a Special Utility Police Vehicle would also be there for people to see.
Cars and automobiles would not be the only ones who would be available for viewing at this event. The Metro Life Flight helicopters and the Tri-C Police Motorcycle Unit would be making special appearances. The Tri-C West Auto Tech facility would even be giving free tours of their place. So if you are interested in these, then you better head out for the Cops 'n Rodders show.
And if you are already tired and hungry, there are various refreshment booths and food stuff available throughout the show. Live music would also be blaring out and a disc jockey would be making sure that everybody is feeling the beat and rhythm of the event. Vo Parts http://www.voparts.com
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
by: Kenneth McKinley
Yes, you read that right. It is Cops 'n Rodders and certainly not Cops 'n Robbers.
Cops 'n Rodders is an annual benefit car show that is hosted by the Cuyahoga Community College Western Campus. August 13th is the scheduled date for this year’s Cops 'n Rodders. And 2006 marks the fifth year of the school’s hosting this event.
From nine in the morning up until 3:30 in the afternoon of that day, the Cops 'n Rodders event would be in full swing. And aside from being a benefit car show, it is also going to be a day to campaign and inform people about car and driving safety.
During the whole duration of the car show, attendees would find various things to do. Throughout the event, there would be door prizes and giveaways to be granted for free to those lucky ones. If you are looking for some Volvo S70 performance parts for your vehicle, maybe you will win those at this car show.
Children would also be having a grand time at the Cops 'n Rodders benefit car show. There are activities planned for them like face painting. The first 100 children who would be taking joining the child safety helmet class would be receiving free helmets. But this activity is open for all children.
Other sights to behold and take part of in this benefit car show include a demonstration of K-9 units. This would be headed and facilitated by the North Olmsted Police Department. A D.A.R.E. car unit of the police as well as a Special Utility Police Vehicle would also be there for people to see.
Cars and automobiles would not be the only ones who would be available for viewing at this event. The Metro Life Flight helicopters and the Tri-C Police Motorcycle Unit would be making special appearances. The Tri-C West Auto Tech facility would even be giving free tours of their place. So if you are interested in these, then you better head out for the Cops 'n Rodders show.
And if you are already tired and hungry, there are various refreshment booths and food stuff available throughout the show. Live music would also be blaring out and a disc jockey would be making sure that everybody is feeling the beat and rhythm of the event. Vo Parts http://www.voparts.com
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
Thursday, January 04, 2007
Super Cars
Super Cars
by: Jonathon Hardcastle
Man's thrill for speed can best be satiated with super-cars. Super-cars were made to give a taste of new extremes to mankind. They have powerful engines specially build lighter bodies which allow them to reach high maximum speeds at amazing accelerations.
Modern Super-cars are more reliable than older ones. They use new technology to make them less threatening to the environment; new exhaust converters, comparatively lower ignition engines etc. They are now made with safer gadgets and bodies to keep not only the people inside them safe but also those run over by them. All this, just to build a better future for our children and a safer and cleaner tomorrow. But we are talking about Super-cars here, so that's just not the point.
Super-cars are supposed to be much faster and fearsome than ordinary cars. Though they still are all that, but compared to the Super-cars of the past made almost fifteen years ago they are slightly slower now. The modern Super-cars have so much more technology that even if you hit the brake the computer inside the car calculates the speed and traction control and then brake the car making the response time slower than older Super-cars; in which the car did exactly what and when you told it to do. Fifteen years ago Mclaren proved that they had the technology to cross the 240 mph speed mark. Though Porche have the same technology to achieve that goal, somehow for some strange reason they held back from doing so. In some old Super-cars like the Ferrari F40 there were no door handles, no radio and no carpets and all these things made it a lot lighter. The F40 could go from naught to 60 in 3.2 seconds which almost no modern super-car can accomplish. New modern cars on the other hand have a lot of gadgets but they only serve as distractions. When you are in a super-car is drive and drive fast. Older Super-cars are still much faster than the new contemporary ones.
Environmental agencies and government regulations have made Super-cars of today have made them impotent vis-à-vis there cousins from a decade ago and at the same time have killed the very purpose of engineering and driving a super car.
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
by: Jonathon Hardcastle
Man's thrill for speed can best be satiated with super-cars. Super-cars were made to give a taste of new extremes to mankind. They have powerful engines specially build lighter bodies which allow them to reach high maximum speeds at amazing accelerations.
Modern Super-cars are more reliable than older ones. They use new technology to make them less threatening to the environment; new exhaust converters, comparatively lower ignition engines etc. They are now made with safer gadgets and bodies to keep not only the people inside them safe but also those run over by them. All this, just to build a better future for our children and a safer and cleaner tomorrow. But we are talking about Super-cars here, so that's just not the point.
Super-cars are supposed to be much faster and fearsome than ordinary cars. Though they still are all that, but compared to the Super-cars of the past made almost fifteen years ago they are slightly slower now. The modern Super-cars have so much more technology that even if you hit the brake the computer inside the car calculates the speed and traction control and then brake the car making the response time slower than older Super-cars; in which the car did exactly what and when you told it to do. Fifteen years ago Mclaren proved that they had the technology to cross the 240 mph speed mark. Though Porche have the same technology to achieve that goal, somehow for some strange reason they held back from doing so. In some old Super-cars like the Ferrari F40 there were no door handles, no radio and no carpets and all these things made it a lot lighter. The F40 could go from naught to 60 in 3.2 seconds which almost no modern super-car can accomplish. New modern cars on the other hand have a lot of gadgets but they only serve as distractions. When you are in a super-car is drive and drive fast. Older Super-cars are still much faster than the new contemporary ones.
Environmental agencies and government regulations have made Super-cars of today have made them impotent vis-à-vis there cousins from a decade ago and at the same time have killed the very purpose of engineering and driving a super car.
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
Wednesday, January 03, 2007
How To Make Your Car Show Attractive
How To Make Your Car Show Attractive
by: Tonza Borden
Vintage automobiles, vendors and entertainment work like a magnet to attract visitors to a well planned and well executed car show. A variety of antique classic cars, trucks and cycles, great food, choice of beverage and plenty of it is what visitors want.
Music Matters
Add live music or a disc jockey spinning tunes from the 50s, 60s and 70s and your visitors will stay in the party mood from beginning to end. And no car show would be complete without fun activities for kids.
Kick It Up A Notch
Another attraction can also be your theme such as 50s costumes or funky vintage attire. This is a simple way for hosts and visitors to add to the attraction. The fun can start with shopping at thrift stores for your outfit. Another popular car show attraction is a Swap Meet.
Ask your group to donate retro items from their garage, storage room, etc. and sell it cheap. The cheaper the prices the more you will sell and there won’t be anything to pack up. Are there any musicians or artisans in your group who would perform for the love of it?
An attraction doesn’t have to be huge or expensive—just interesting and fun. Equipped with a small budget and a large cache of creativity, you can make your car show very attractive.
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
by: Tonza Borden
Vintage automobiles, vendors and entertainment work like a magnet to attract visitors to a well planned and well executed car show. A variety of antique classic cars, trucks and cycles, great food, choice of beverage and plenty of it is what visitors want.
Music Matters
Add live music or a disc jockey spinning tunes from the 50s, 60s and 70s and your visitors will stay in the party mood from beginning to end. And no car show would be complete without fun activities for kids.
Kick It Up A Notch
Another attraction can also be your theme such as 50s costumes or funky vintage attire. This is a simple way for hosts and visitors to add to the attraction. The fun can start with shopping at thrift stores for your outfit. Another popular car show attraction is a Swap Meet.
Ask your group to donate retro items from their garage, storage room, etc. and sell it cheap. The cheaper the prices the more you will sell and there won’t be anything to pack up. Are there any musicians or artisans in your group who would perform for the love of it?
An attraction doesn’t have to be huge or expensive—just interesting and fun. Equipped with a small budget and a large cache of creativity, you can make your car show very attractive.
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
Tuesday, January 02, 2007
Pinstripe Your Car. Basic Customization
Pinstripe your Car. Basic Customization
by: Allison Thompson
Prior to the invention of the car, pin striping was being used as ornamental decoration on horse drawn buggies, coaches and carriages.
However, the use of pinstripes to customize cars began to appear on them during the middle of the 1950’s. Even though it seems that pin striping had in fact been appearing on cars prior to this time and the last American car to appear with pin striping on it straight from the factory was made by General Motors towards the end of the 1930’s. For many people who own muscle or sports cars today, customizing their vehicle is as important as actually owning and showing the vehicle off and pin striping seems to add those final finishing touches.
Normally pinstripes appear on a car using two colours, the first is used to help set off the body colour and then the second thinner line is used in a contrasting colour to make sure that the stripe actually stands out.
Nowadays, mechanical pin striping is the best method for applying stripes to larger vehicles such as trucks, vans or station wagons (RV’s). This system ensures that the stripes being laid down are of a constant width and allows you to focus more of your attention on getting the stripe placed correctly on the vehicles surface. This can be done using magnetic pin striping strips with a central groove which is designed to be used as a paint template. They are specifically designed to hold fast on to any steel surface and can also be used a guide line for your hand when actually doing the work.
Another way of pin striping a vehicle is to use stencil tape. You will soon find that there are several kinds of stencil tape available which are suitable for using when carrying out pin striping on a car. However, with this method you will need to use brushes and the purchasing of a pin striping brush is essential if you want the project to be a success. The benefit of this method is that you are able to apply different colour stripes to your vehicle without having to wait for the other stripes to dry.
The last method for pin striping is Freehand and this is certainly the most difficult and requires a lot of practice before it is mastered fully. However, it does allow the person carrying out the pin striping to have more freedom in relation to what they create on their vehicle. The best way any freehand pin striping newbie can do is lay a strip of masking tape about ¼ inch down from where the finished line will be and then use this as a visual guide when painting on your stripes. However, remember you should not use regular masking tape otherwise the pin striping paint will actually bleed under the edge you can purchase auto body masking tape from any reputable automobile supply shop/store.
At the end of the day it does not matter which method of pin striping you decide to use, just remember it is a great way of making your car look that little bit different from the rest. But it is like anything else, practice makes perfect and by having the best equipment as well to use will help also.
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
by: Allison Thompson
Prior to the invention of the car, pin striping was being used as ornamental decoration on horse drawn buggies, coaches and carriages.
However, the use of pinstripes to customize cars began to appear on them during the middle of the 1950’s. Even though it seems that pin striping had in fact been appearing on cars prior to this time and the last American car to appear with pin striping on it straight from the factory was made by General Motors towards the end of the 1930’s. For many people who own muscle or sports cars today, customizing their vehicle is as important as actually owning and showing the vehicle off and pin striping seems to add those final finishing touches.
Normally pinstripes appear on a car using two colours, the first is used to help set off the body colour and then the second thinner line is used in a contrasting colour to make sure that the stripe actually stands out.
Nowadays, mechanical pin striping is the best method for applying stripes to larger vehicles such as trucks, vans or station wagons (RV’s). This system ensures that the stripes being laid down are of a constant width and allows you to focus more of your attention on getting the stripe placed correctly on the vehicles surface. This can be done using magnetic pin striping strips with a central groove which is designed to be used as a paint template. They are specifically designed to hold fast on to any steel surface and can also be used a guide line for your hand when actually doing the work.
Another way of pin striping a vehicle is to use stencil tape. You will soon find that there are several kinds of stencil tape available which are suitable for using when carrying out pin striping on a car. However, with this method you will need to use brushes and the purchasing of a pin striping brush is essential if you want the project to be a success. The benefit of this method is that you are able to apply different colour stripes to your vehicle without having to wait for the other stripes to dry.
The last method for pin striping is Freehand and this is certainly the most difficult and requires a lot of practice before it is mastered fully. However, it does allow the person carrying out the pin striping to have more freedom in relation to what they create on their vehicle. The best way any freehand pin striping newbie can do is lay a strip of masking tape about ¼ inch down from where the finished line will be and then use this as a visual guide when painting on your stripes. However, remember you should not use regular masking tape otherwise the pin striping paint will actually bleed under the edge you can purchase auto body masking tape from any reputable automobile supply shop/store.
At the end of the day it does not matter which method of pin striping you decide to use, just remember it is a great way of making your car look that little bit different from the rest. But it is like anything else, practice makes perfect and by having the best equipment as well to use will help also.
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
Saturday, December 30, 2006
Where To Find Classic Car Parts
Where To Find Classic Car Parts
by: Joel Noah
Classic car parts are not easy to come by. But if you have finally been able to purchase theclassic car you’ve always dreamed of, finding the classic car parts to restore and accessorize it may be a high on your priority list.
Whether you have a muscle car, an antique or a vintage model, you will inevitably find the need to replace and restore some of your car parts. Classic car parts are not as readily available as for the cars that are still in production. You can’t just walk into a dealership and place your order because the parts are no longer being made. But with a little digging, they can be found.
Some places to start your search include:
Online Auctions
Online auction sites, such as Ebay, are probably the easiest place to begin your search for classic car parts. If you’ve seen the ads that Ebay has “It,” you know this is true. Ebay Motors has many listings for hard to find vehicles and classic car parts. You’ll have to cover the shipping charges, so that is something to consider when purchasing larger items.
Swap Meets
Finding a local swap meet may be just the thing you need to locate the classic car parts you need. They are great places to find older model accessories and other outdated items.
Classic Car Part Dealer Publications
Often times you can find the parts you are looking for in car part dealer magazines. The only drawback here is that you will probably have to spend top dollar. This option could be used as a last resort though if you are unable to find a specific part anywhere else. Exhaust all other possibilities first if money is tight.
Clubs and Organizations
Clubs and organizations exist for as many hobbies that people can think up. Certainly, there are a fair number of clubs and organizations geared toward car enthusiasts. Locating and joining one such club may prove beneficial in your hunt for classic car parts. You will be able to make connections with other people who share your interest.
In the Internet age, it is also possible to find a club or organization centered on classic car parts by doing an online search. Try searching Yahoo groups and you are likely to find a list of clubs you could join. Again, making connections with people who share your interest in classic car parts may lead you to a dealer or another source from which you can purchase classic car parts.
Junkyards
Maybe you don’t picture yourself hanging around a junkyard to find used classic car parts, but you may be able to find a diamond in the rough. If you have never used this type of service before, it could be worthwhile to check it out. Everything is computerized and usually a visit or a phone call is all you need to check and see if they have the part or accessory that you need for your precious investment.
Of course you will want to take good care of your classic car to limit the number of parts that you will need to search for. The less time you spend tracking down parts, the more time you can spend enjoying the car of your dreams.
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
by: Joel Noah
Classic car parts are not easy to come by. But if you have finally been able to purchase theclassic car you’ve always dreamed of, finding the classic car parts to restore and accessorize it may be a high on your priority list.
Whether you have a muscle car, an antique or a vintage model, you will inevitably find the need to replace and restore some of your car parts. Classic car parts are not as readily available as for the cars that are still in production. You can’t just walk into a dealership and place your order because the parts are no longer being made. But with a little digging, they can be found.
Some places to start your search include:
Online Auctions
Online auction sites, such as Ebay, are probably the easiest place to begin your search for classic car parts. If you’ve seen the ads that Ebay has “It,” you know this is true. Ebay Motors has many listings for hard to find vehicles and classic car parts. You’ll have to cover the shipping charges, so that is something to consider when purchasing larger items.
Swap Meets
Finding a local swap meet may be just the thing you need to locate the classic car parts you need. They are great places to find older model accessories and other outdated items.
Classic Car Part Dealer Publications
Often times you can find the parts you are looking for in car part dealer magazines. The only drawback here is that you will probably have to spend top dollar. This option could be used as a last resort though if you are unable to find a specific part anywhere else. Exhaust all other possibilities first if money is tight.
Clubs and Organizations
Clubs and organizations exist for as many hobbies that people can think up. Certainly, there are a fair number of clubs and organizations geared toward car enthusiasts. Locating and joining one such club may prove beneficial in your hunt for classic car parts. You will be able to make connections with other people who share your interest.
In the Internet age, it is also possible to find a club or organization centered on classic car parts by doing an online search. Try searching Yahoo groups and you are likely to find a list of clubs you could join. Again, making connections with people who share your interest in classic car parts may lead you to a dealer or another source from which you can purchase classic car parts.
Junkyards
Maybe you don’t picture yourself hanging around a junkyard to find used classic car parts, but you may be able to find a diamond in the rough. If you have never used this type of service before, it could be worthwhile to check it out. Everything is computerized and usually a visit or a phone call is all you need to check and see if they have the part or accessory that you need for your precious investment.
Of course you will want to take good care of your classic car to limit the number of parts that you will need to search for. The less time you spend tracking down parts, the more time you can spend enjoying the car of your dreams.
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
Friday, December 29, 2006
Is A Classic Car Right For You?
Is A Classic Car Right For You?
by: Jeff Anderson
There are several things to consider when thinking about the purchase of a classic car.
Can you afford this purchase? Then think about repairs, if you can't do them yourself it will be expensive as will the parts needed to fix the car.
Speaking of parts, they are often hard to find so your car may be out of commission for long periods of time. Do you have the patience to deal with these delays? If you won't be doing the repairs yourself do you know of a good mechanic who is qualified to work on the classic car you want to buy?
You should have at least $3000 put away for repairs. That sounds like a lot but is actually the minimum suggested by classic car experts.
Are you thinking about doing restoration work? If you plan to do it yourself remember to have enough space allotted for the job. You will need room to take the classic car apart and store it during the restoration.
Will you drive your classic car on public roads? If you are planning to remember that driving situations have changed. Brakes and steering systems were made for a different time. You will need to make adjustments when driving the classic car in today's traffic.
You will need classic car insurance. The classic cars did not come equipped with the anti-theft devices or serial number database of today's cars. The classic cars were not made with security devices.
If you have a "partner" are they supporting you in this endeavor? It will take time and money to make this dream a realization so make sure you have the backing you need. Some couples enjoy this hobby together.
Take time and find the car that is right for you. You may have dreamed about a certain car but now realize that it is too expensive and prone to breakdowns. Modify your search and buy only when you have everything in order. Make certain that this is a decision you can afford.
Buying a classic car can be a great hobby and a dream-come-true but make sure you know what you're doing before you buy!
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
by: Jeff Anderson
There are several things to consider when thinking about the purchase of a classic car.
Can you afford this purchase? Then think about repairs, if you can't do them yourself it will be expensive as will the parts needed to fix the car.
Speaking of parts, they are often hard to find so your car may be out of commission for long periods of time. Do you have the patience to deal with these delays? If you won't be doing the repairs yourself do you know of a good mechanic who is qualified to work on the classic car you want to buy?
You should have at least $3000 put away for repairs. That sounds like a lot but is actually the minimum suggested by classic car experts.
Are you thinking about doing restoration work? If you plan to do it yourself remember to have enough space allotted for the job. You will need room to take the classic car apart and store it during the restoration.
Will you drive your classic car on public roads? If you are planning to remember that driving situations have changed. Brakes and steering systems were made for a different time. You will need to make adjustments when driving the classic car in today's traffic.
You will need classic car insurance. The classic cars did not come equipped with the anti-theft devices or serial number database of today's cars. The classic cars were not made with security devices.
If you have a "partner" are they supporting you in this endeavor? It will take time and money to make this dream a realization so make sure you have the backing you need. Some couples enjoy this hobby together.
Take time and find the car that is right for you. You may have dreamed about a certain car but now realize that it is too expensive and prone to breakdowns. Modify your search and buy only when you have everything in order. Make certain that this is a decision you can afford.
Buying a classic car can be a great hobby and a dream-come-true but make sure you know what you're doing before you buy!
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
Thursday, December 28, 2006
All About Car Shows: People Behind The Scene
All About Car Shows: People Behind The Scene
by: Tonza Borden
Now that you have picked a leader and have a plan of action, you can proceed to forming committees.
People Behind The Scene
When the car show visitors see your extravagant event, they won’t see all the hard work performed by the people behind the scene. On the day of the show, these worker bees will be at their assigned post in the midst of fun and festivities. However, getting to this point is no easy task. To have a car show extravaganza—not your ordinary event, you will need extraordinary people.
A Few Good People
They are a select group of men and women who will work on the committees. These individual groups will be the nucleus of executing a successful event. They must be people who like and respect each other to work as a team. A car show extravaganza requires individual stamina, flexibility and cooperation because each committee will be responsible for a component of the event on a time-line.
Equal Opportunity
Each person within the committee will have specific tasks to perform. No one person wants to feel burdened with an unequal share of responsibility. And, everyone wants to have fun, of course. So, list the tasks, ask for volunteer team captains and workers. Then, determine who has special or creative skills that can be used to enhance assignments. People who volunteer usually participate at a higher level than those drafted or made to feel obligated.
When it is all said and done, it is the people behind the scene of your successful event that will make you proud.
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
by: Tonza Borden
Now that you have picked a leader and have a plan of action, you can proceed to forming committees.
People Behind The Scene
When the car show visitors see your extravagant event, they won’t see all the hard work performed by the people behind the scene. On the day of the show, these worker bees will be at their assigned post in the midst of fun and festivities. However, getting to this point is no easy task. To have a car show extravaganza—not your ordinary event, you will need extraordinary people.
A Few Good People
They are a select group of men and women who will work on the committees. These individual groups will be the nucleus of executing a successful event. They must be people who like and respect each other to work as a team. A car show extravaganza requires individual stamina, flexibility and cooperation because each committee will be responsible for a component of the event on a time-line.
Equal Opportunity
Each person within the committee will have specific tasks to perform. No one person wants to feel burdened with an unequal share of responsibility. And, everyone wants to have fun, of course. So, list the tasks, ask for volunteer team captains and workers. Then, determine who has special or creative skills that can be used to enhance assignments. People who volunteer usually participate at a higher level than those drafted or made to feel obligated.
When it is all said and done, it is the people behind the scene of your successful event that will make you proud.
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
Wednesday, December 27, 2006
Car Engine Explained
The Engine Explained
by: Kevin Schappell
The engine is the heart of your car, but instead of pumping blood, the engine pumps air and fuel. The engines main function is to convert air and fuel into rotary motion so it can drive the wheels of the car. How does it do that ??.... Well let's start with a cutaway of the engine and see all the major parts then we will get into the actual mechanics.
Pistons: Most common engines have 4, 6, or 8 pistons, which move up and down in the cylinders. On the upper side of the piston is what is called the combustion chamber where the fuel and air mix before ignited. On the other side is the crankcase, which is full of oil. Pistons have rings which serve to keep the oil out of the combustion chamber and the fuel and air out of the oil.
Crankshaft: The crankshaft is connected to the pistons via a connecting rod. As the piston moves up and down in the cylinder it rotates the crankshaft and converts the straight line motion into rotary motion.
Valve train: The valve train consists of valves, rocker arms, pushrods, lifters, and the camshaft. (shown in above picture in blue, yellow, and green) The valve train’s only job is that of a traffic cop. It lets air and fuel in and out of the engine at the proper time. The timing is controlled by the camshaft, which is synchronized to the crankshaft by a chain or belt.
Now that we have a general overview of the parts involved let's talk about what happens. Most automotive engine today are 4-stroke (or 4-cycle) engines, meaning they have four distinct events which make up the cycle.
Intake stroke: The camshaft opens the intake valve and the piston moves down the cylinder. This creates vacuum and sucks in air and fuel into the combustion chamber above the piston.
Compression stroke: As the piston starts moving back up the cylinder the intake valve closes and seals off the combustion chamber. The causes the air and fuel to compress.
Power stroke: As the fuel is compressed and the piston nears the top of the cylinder the spark plug fires and ignites the fuel and air. This explosion pushes the piston back down the cylinder and drives the crankshaft.
Exhaust stroke: After the piston reaches the bottom of the cylinder, the exhaust valve opens and the gasses left over from the fuel and air are sent out to the exhaust system.
Put these four events together in the above order and you have a complete cycle. Are you asleep yet? That's enough theory, let's talk about the real world and problems you might encounter with the above mentioned parts.
Pistons: Remember I talked about the rings, which seal the combustion chamber from the crankcase. The rings over time tend to wear out. When they wear they allow the fuel and air to enter into the oil and dilute it. This dilution reduces the oils ability to lubricate your engine and can cause premature wear. Also if the rings wear down they can allow oil from the crankcase to enter the combustion chambers. This will result in oil being burned and exiting your tailpipe as grayish/white smoke. If your car spews grayish white smoke and it does not go stop in the first few minutes after start-up you might have warn rings. If the smoke goes away after start-up look to the valve train section.
Crankshaft: The crankshaft rides on bearings, which can wear down over time. The bearings support the crankshaft and also the rods, which connect the pistons to the crankshaft. A loud medium pitched knocking noise in the engine points to warn bearings most of the time. This is usually a costly repair and involves removing the crankshaft and either machining the surface where the bearings ride, or replacing the entire crankshaft. To prevent this type of problem, use a high quality oil, change your oil at suggested intervals (3 months or 3000 miles is a safe number) and always maintain your oil level between oil changes.
Valve train: Remember the oil smoke problem mentioned above in the piston sections. If your car only smokes grayish/white smoke at start-up you may have leaking valve seals. Valve seals keep oil from above the valve from leaking into the combustion chamber. When they wear, they can allow oil to seep into the combustion chamber and collect there until your start the engine again. You generally do not get oil leaking past the valve seals while the engine is running since the seals expand with the heat of the engine and plug the leak.
Another common problem is the timing chain or belt will slip or even break causing the cam shaft to stop rotating. Remember the camshaft tells the valves when to open and if it stops spinning then the valves stop opening and closing. No valve moving, no engine running :-)
A term you will here when talking about timing chains and belts is "interference engine". When an engine is an "interference engine" the pistons and valves are so close together that if the valves were to stop moving (broken belt or chain) and the crankshaft kept spinning they would crash into the piston. (that's the interference) This crash tends to do bad things to an engine, breaking valve, bending pushrods, and even cracking pistons. This is why most manufacturers recommend changing the timing chain or belt every 60,000 miles. Timing belts dry out, stretch and deteriorate over time so even if you do not have 60,000 miles on the car think about changing the belt after it's 6 years old.
Preventive Maintenance:
Change your oil regularly.
Give your engine a chance to warm up before driving if possible. Let the oil get into all parts of the engine before driving. This is even more critical in cooler temperatures when the oil is cold and sluggish.
Change your timing belt or chain at your manufacturer's recommended interval.
Avoid "snake oil" additives advertised on late night TV. Regular oil changes and good maintenance habits will keep your engine running it's best.
If you have a turbo charged engine, give the engine a minute or two cool down before turning it off. This cool down period allows oil to circulate and cool down the bearings. If you shut off the engine immediately after hard driving, the oil can gum up around the hot bearings and create problems down the road.
What to discuss with your mechanic:
If you have to replace your engine, discuss the benefits of buying used versus new. If you plan on keeping your car for some time, a new engine might be the best bet. Sometimes new engines are not much more expensive than rebuilt ones, and offer the best solution.
When trying to diagnose engine noises, be as descriptive as possible. Take note to when the noise occurs; at what throttle position, and when the noise started occurring. Sometimes changing the weight of oil being used can cause a new noise to crop up. Make sure you mechanic knows if you changed oil brands or weight recently.
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
by: Kevin Schappell
The engine is the heart of your car, but instead of pumping blood, the engine pumps air and fuel. The engines main function is to convert air and fuel into rotary motion so it can drive the wheels of the car. How does it do that ??.... Well let's start with a cutaway of the engine and see all the major parts then we will get into the actual mechanics.
Pistons: Most common engines have 4, 6, or 8 pistons, which move up and down in the cylinders. On the upper side of the piston is what is called the combustion chamber where the fuel and air mix before ignited. On the other side is the crankcase, which is full of oil. Pistons have rings which serve to keep the oil out of the combustion chamber and the fuel and air out of the oil.
Crankshaft: The crankshaft is connected to the pistons via a connecting rod. As the piston moves up and down in the cylinder it rotates the crankshaft and converts the straight line motion into rotary motion.
Valve train: The valve train consists of valves, rocker arms, pushrods, lifters, and the camshaft. (shown in above picture in blue, yellow, and green) The valve train’s only job is that of a traffic cop. It lets air and fuel in and out of the engine at the proper time. The timing is controlled by the camshaft, which is synchronized to the crankshaft by a chain or belt.
Now that we have a general overview of the parts involved let's talk about what happens. Most automotive engine today are 4-stroke (or 4-cycle) engines, meaning they have four distinct events which make up the cycle.
Intake stroke: The camshaft opens the intake valve and the piston moves down the cylinder. This creates vacuum and sucks in air and fuel into the combustion chamber above the piston.
Compression stroke: As the piston starts moving back up the cylinder the intake valve closes and seals off the combustion chamber. The causes the air and fuel to compress.
Power stroke: As the fuel is compressed and the piston nears the top of the cylinder the spark plug fires and ignites the fuel and air. This explosion pushes the piston back down the cylinder and drives the crankshaft.
Exhaust stroke: After the piston reaches the bottom of the cylinder, the exhaust valve opens and the gasses left over from the fuel and air are sent out to the exhaust system.
Put these four events together in the above order and you have a complete cycle. Are you asleep yet? That's enough theory, let's talk about the real world and problems you might encounter with the above mentioned parts.
Pistons: Remember I talked about the rings, which seal the combustion chamber from the crankcase. The rings over time tend to wear out. When they wear they allow the fuel and air to enter into the oil and dilute it. This dilution reduces the oils ability to lubricate your engine and can cause premature wear. Also if the rings wear down they can allow oil from the crankcase to enter the combustion chambers. This will result in oil being burned and exiting your tailpipe as grayish/white smoke. If your car spews grayish white smoke and it does not go stop in the first few minutes after start-up you might have warn rings. If the smoke goes away after start-up look to the valve train section.
Crankshaft: The crankshaft rides on bearings, which can wear down over time. The bearings support the crankshaft and also the rods, which connect the pistons to the crankshaft. A loud medium pitched knocking noise in the engine points to warn bearings most of the time. This is usually a costly repair and involves removing the crankshaft and either machining the surface where the bearings ride, or replacing the entire crankshaft. To prevent this type of problem, use a high quality oil, change your oil at suggested intervals (3 months or 3000 miles is a safe number) and always maintain your oil level between oil changes.
Valve train: Remember the oil smoke problem mentioned above in the piston sections. If your car only smokes grayish/white smoke at start-up you may have leaking valve seals. Valve seals keep oil from above the valve from leaking into the combustion chamber. When they wear, they can allow oil to seep into the combustion chamber and collect there until your start the engine again. You generally do not get oil leaking past the valve seals while the engine is running since the seals expand with the heat of the engine and plug the leak.
Another common problem is the timing chain or belt will slip or even break causing the cam shaft to stop rotating. Remember the camshaft tells the valves when to open and if it stops spinning then the valves stop opening and closing. No valve moving, no engine running :-)
A term you will here when talking about timing chains and belts is "interference engine". When an engine is an "interference engine" the pistons and valves are so close together that if the valves were to stop moving (broken belt or chain) and the crankshaft kept spinning they would crash into the piston. (that's the interference) This crash tends to do bad things to an engine, breaking valve, bending pushrods, and even cracking pistons. This is why most manufacturers recommend changing the timing chain or belt every 60,000 miles. Timing belts dry out, stretch and deteriorate over time so even if you do not have 60,000 miles on the car think about changing the belt after it's 6 years old.
Preventive Maintenance:
Change your oil regularly.
Give your engine a chance to warm up before driving if possible. Let the oil get into all parts of the engine before driving. This is even more critical in cooler temperatures when the oil is cold and sluggish.
Change your timing belt or chain at your manufacturer's recommended interval.
Avoid "snake oil" additives advertised on late night TV. Regular oil changes and good maintenance habits will keep your engine running it's best.
If you have a turbo charged engine, give the engine a minute or two cool down before turning it off. This cool down period allows oil to circulate and cool down the bearings. If you shut off the engine immediately after hard driving, the oil can gum up around the hot bearings and create problems down the road.
What to discuss with your mechanic:
If you have to replace your engine, discuss the benefits of buying used versus new. If you plan on keeping your car for some time, a new engine might be the best bet. Sometimes new engines are not much more expensive than rebuilt ones, and offer the best solution.
When trying to diagnose engine noises, be as descriptive as possible. Take note to when the noise occurs; at what throttle position, and when the noise started occurring. Sometimes changing the weight of oil being used can cause a new noise to crop up. Make sure you mechanic knows if you changed oil brands or weight recently.
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
Tuesday, December 26, 2006
Extend The Life Of Your New Or Used Car
Extend The Life Of Your New Or Used Car
by: Ryan Larson
You don't think much about your car do you? Your car sits outside 24/7, 365 days a year in all extremes of weather. You routinely drive it at speeds that exceed 70 mph. You stop, start, stop, start through city traffic. You sit idling in traffic jams day after day. Yet, you expect your car to start every time you get into it and turn the key.
The best thing that you can do to extend the life of your car, and to potentially save yourself a bundle of money, is to have your car serviced on a routine basis. All car manufacturers have a schedule of recommended services for each vehicle they sell. Follow this schedule. The best place to have work done on a new vehicle that is still under warranty is the dealership.
It's a bit different when you have an older, out of warranty car. At this point you can make a decision to continue to use the dealer for service, or find yourself a local mechanic.
The first rule of thumb is to have the oil in your car changed every 3,000 miles. This is the simplest and most important part of routine maintenance for your car. At that time, whether you go to a "speedy" oil change business or to your mechanic, the technician will take a look at the overall condition of your engine. They'll check belts and hoses and fluid levels of your transmission and brakes. They'll check your air cleaner and the condition of your tires. Some of these drive through services also offer add on's such as engine cleaning and radiator flushes. If they think they see something that could become potentially serious they will tell you about it and suggest you take your car to a mechanic.
Cars have really changed over the years and most technicians use computers to diagnose problems. You'll need to be able to describe the problem to the mechanic. They'll need to know things such as when you first noticed the problem and exactly under what condition it happens. Does it happen when the car is cold, or after it warms up? Does it happen when you're at an idle or when your accelerating? If you don't use the same mechanic have a copy of your car's service record with you so that the new mechanic can see what maintenance been done in the past. It's best to find a mechanic you're comfortable with and stay with him. Knowing your car's history can go a long way towards helping him diagnose and fix a problem.
Learn to listen to your car. If you hear an unusual noise, notice a change in it's performance or handling take it to your mechanic.
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
by: Ryan Larson
You don't think much about your car do you? Your car sits outside 24/7, 365 days a year in all extremes of weather. You routinely drive it at speeds that exceed 70 mph. You stop, start, stop, start through city traffic. You sit idling in traffic jams day after day. Yet, you expect your car to start every time you get into it and turn the key.
The best thing that you can do to extend the life of your car, and to potentially save yourself a bundle of money, is to have your car serviced on a routine basis. All car manufacturers have a schedule of recommended services for each vehicle they sell. Follow this schedule. The best place to have work done on a new vehicle that is still under warranty is the dealership.
It's a bit different when you have an older, out of warranty car. At this point you can make a decision to continue to use the dealer for service, or find yourself a local mechanic.
The first rule of thumb is to have the oil in your car changed every 3,000 miles. This is the simplest and most important part of routine maintenance for your car. At that time, whether you go to a "speedy" oil change business or to your mechanic, the technician will take a look at the overall condition of your engine. They'll check belts and hoses and fluid levels of your transmission and brakes. They'll check your air cleaner and the condition of your tires. Some of these drive through services also offer add on's such as engine cleaning and radiator flushes. If they think they see something that could become potentially serious they will tell you about it and suggest you take your car to a mechanic.
Cars have really changed over the years and most technicians use computers to diagnose problems. You'll need to be able to describe the problem to the mechanic. They'll need to know things such as when you first noticed the problem and exactly under what condition it happens. Does it happen when the car is cold, or after it warms up? Does it happen when you're at an idle or when your accelerating? If you don't use the same mechanic have a copy of your car's service record with you so that the new mechanic can see what maintenance been done in the past. It's best to find a mechanic you're comfortable with and stay with him. Knowing your car's history can go a long way towards helping him diagnose and fix a problem.
Learn to listen to your car. If you hear an unusual noise, notice a change in it's performance or handling take it to your mechanic.
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
Saturday, December 23, 2006
How Pop-Culture Collectibles Can Increase Your Online Auction Profits
How Pop-Culture Collectibles Can Increase Your Online Auction Profits
by: David Espino
How Pop Culture collectibles can increase your Online Auction profits
With the increasingly competitive environment for products to sell in the online auction arena, sellers are getting more creative as to the items they purchase for re-sale.
While some of the Dutch Auction items that are frequently sold on eBay will always maintain their commodity status and always sell well, Pop Culture collectibles will usually generate a higher profit-per-item simply because of a combination of two forces.
Scarcity and Desirability.
Pop Culture collectibles can run the gamut from a special early edition pair of Levis to a rare Coca Cola collectible.
However, when I discuss Pop Culture items in this article, I will limit the definition to only the types of collectibles that I’ve managed to have any experience with and that would be T.V., Movie and Toy collectibles.
Obviously, the category of Pop Culture collectibles is much bigger than this limited definition, but in the interests of keeping this a knowledgeable article, I will focus on the limited definition here.
One of my first experiences with Pop Culture collectibles was with a box of unused "The Fonz" posters that I found at an antiques swap meet a few years ago.
I came across this box at a seller’s stand. It had one poster taped to the outside of the box and the price tag on the box said $5 each.
I asked the seller "How much are the posters?", not ever assuming that the price on the box was the current price.
The seller replied with "Three bucks each."
Being new to eBay and wanting to experiment, I counted the posters, which were still in shrink wrap material. There were 25 posters in the box. The box looked like it had been loaded and unloaded too many times, but the posters were in perfect condition.
So I asked the seller, "How much for the whole box?"
He asked, "How many are there?"
I told him, "25".
He said, "How about $40 for the box?"
I said, "O.K.", and handed him $40.
I posted an auction for one of the Fonz posters that week. It was a large photo of "The Fonz for Prez", sort of a campaign poster with Fonzie in his traditional Leather jacket, thumbs up and a "Sit on it" button on his jacket.
The auction was set to close on a Sunday, and when I checked it on Friday, it was up to $22 !
I was shocked and happy at the same time.
On Sunday, I took my family out to dinner and got home to see that the auction had closed at an astonishing $42.50 !
That experience was the one that cemented me in the area of Pop Culture collectibles!
I continued to sell the Fonz posters, one at a time (so as not to "flood the market") at prices from the $42.50 high to a low of $12.50.
My estimate for gross sales is somewhere around $450 for that box of posters.
This type of profit exists in the area of Pop Culture collectibles, but it does take some guts to seek out and "gamble" on these types of deals.
I had no idea what the posters were worth when I purchased them, but I had a good hunch, which proved to be correct.
Other Pop Culture deals I’ve made, most found at antique swap meets:
M.A.S.H. action figures - purchased a box of 28 of them for $50, sold them individually for between $9.00 and $15.50
Star Wars Figures - purchased a box of special limited edition figures for $120 at a regular swap meet, sold the box to a Star Wars dealer for $2,100.
Evel Knievel figure, mint in box, purchased for $10, sold for $115.
Alien 3 movie theater poster (massive, about 4’ tall by 12‘ wide), found at a yard sale for $10, sold on eBay for $50.
Bionic Woman action figure, mint in box, purchased for $30, sold for $85.
In each of these cases, I had no idea what the value was, I just went with my gut. But the fact that they were Pop Culture collectibles made it much easier to take that chance and buy the items.
Another solution many sellers use is to have their spouse at home, ready at the computer to do price research on unknown items!
Armed with a cell phone and a significant other at home doing research, your results will be less of a risk and more fun, too!
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
by: David Espino
How Pop Culture collectibles can increase your Online Auction profits
With the increasingly competitive environment for products to sell in the online auction arena, sellers are getting more creative as to the items they purchase for re-sale.
While some of the Dutch Auction items that are frequently sold on eBay will always maintain their commodity status and always sell well, Pop Culture collectibles will usually generate a higher profit-per-item simply because of a combination of two forces.
Scarcity and Desirability.
Pop Culture collectibles can run the gamut from a special early edition pair of Levis to a rare Coca Cola collectible.
However, when I discuss Pop Culture items in this article, I will limit the definition to only the types of collectibles that I’ve managed to have any experience with and that would be T.V., Movie and Toy collectibles.
Obviously, the category of Pop Culture collectibles is much bigger than this limited definition, but in the interests of keeping this a knowledgeable article, I will focus on the limited definition here.
One of my first experiences with Pop Culture collectibles was with a box of unused "The Fonz" posters that I found at an antiques swap meet a few years ago.
I came across this box at a seller’s stand. It had one poster taped to the outside of the box and the price tag on the box said $5 each.
I asked the seller "How much are the posters?", not ever assuming that the price on the box was the current price.
The seller replied with "Three bucks each."
Being new to eBay and wanting to experiment, I counted the posters, which were still in shrink wrap material. There were 25 posters in the box. The box looked like it had been loaded and unloaded too many times, but the posters were in perfect condition.
So I asked the seller, "How much for the whole box?"
He asked, "How many are there?"
I told him, "25".
He said, "How about $40 for the box?"
I said, "O.K.", and handed him $40.
I posted an auction for one of the Fonz posters that week. It was a large photo of "The Fonz for Prez", sort of a campaign poster with Fonzie in his traditional Leather jacket, thumbs up and a "Sit on it" button on his jacket.
The auction was set to close on a Sunday, and when I checked it on Friday, it was up to $22 !
I was shocked and happy at the same time.
On Sunday, I took my family out to dinner and got home to see that the auction had closed at an astonishing $42.50 !
That experience was the one that cemented me in the area of Pop Culture collectibles!
I continued to sell the Fonz posters, one at a time (so as not to "flood the market") at prices from the $42.50 high to a low of $12.50.
My estimate for gross sales is somewhere around $450 for that box of posters.
This type of profit exists in the area of Pop Culture collectibles, but it does take some guts to seek out and "gamble" on these types of deals.
I had no idea what the posters were worth when I purchased them, but I had a good hunch, which proved to be correct.
Other Pop Culture deals I’ve made, most found at antique swap meets:
M.A.S.H. action figures - purchased a box of 28 of them for $50, sold them individually for between $9.00 and $15.50
Star Wars Figures - purchased a box of special limited edition figures for $120 at a regular swap meet, sold the box to a Star Wars dealer for $2,100.
Evel Knievel figure, mint in box, purchased for $10, sold for $115.
Alien 3 movie theater poster (massive, about 4’ tall by 12‘ wide), found at a yard sale for $10, sold on eBay for $50.
Bionic Woman action figure, mint in box, purchased for $30, sold for $85.
In each of these cases, I had no idea what the value was, I just went with my gut. But the fact that they were Pop Culture collectibles made it much easier to take that chance and buy the items.
Another solution many sellers use is to have their spouse at home, ready at the computer to do price research on unknown items!
Armed with a cell phone and a significant other at home doing research, your results will be less of a risk and more fun, too!
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
Friday, December 22, 2006
Antiques & Classics - Cars That Last
Antique Classics – Cars That Last
by: NamSing Then
The term Antique Classics is used in reference to old cars. According to Antique Automobile Club of America, an antique car is generally defined as a car over 25 years of age. However, the exact legal definition for the purpose of antique vehicle registration varies widely from State to State.
With about 12 years being the normal design life of modern cars, 25 years is about double and therefore a car that's reached 25 is a rare survivor, and probably not economic to maintain as regular transportation.
The term Classic Car is often used synonymously with the term Antique car, but the formal definition of that term is restricted to specific high-quality vehicles from the pre-World War II era which began with the Great Depression in 1930 and ended with the recovery after World War II in 1948. The Classic Car Club of America (CCCA) defines the term Classic as a “fine" or "distinctive" automobile, either American or foreign built, produced between 1925 and 1948. A Classic was high-priced when it was introduced and was built in very limited quantities. Although, by 1930’s most of the manufacturing technologies had already been invented, certain factors like including engine displacement, custom coachwork and luxury accessories, such as power brakes, power clutch, and automatic lubrication systems, help determine whether a car can be considered a Classic.
Some exemplary pre-war Antique Classics are:
1. 1934–1940 Bugatti Type 57. The Type 57SC has become the singular classic car.
2. 1934 Citroën Traction Avant. Has the distinction of being the first mass-produced front-wheel drive car,
3. 1936 MG T series, a sports car meant especially for American soldiers fighting in the war.
4. 1938 Volkswagen Beetle, the most-famous automobile of all times. It was a pre-war design that continues to exist even in the present times.
The CCCA Club keeps a thorough list of the vehicles they consider Classics, and while any member may petition for a vehicle to join the list, such applications are carefully scrutinized and very rarely is a new vehicle type admitted. They also acknowledge the fact that their rather exclusive definition of a classic car is by no means universally followed and hence they generally use terms such as “CCCA Classic” or the trademarked “Full Classic” to avoid confusion.
After 1930 the number of auto manufacturers came down sharply, as the industry consolidated, and developed after the war more advances in engine design were made, like the compression V8 engines and modern bodies from General Motors, Oldsmobile and Cadillac brands.
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
by: NamSing Then
The term Antique Classics is used in reference to old cars. According to Antique Automobile Club of America, an antique car is generally defined as a car over 25 years of age. However, the exact legal definition for the purpose of antique vehicle registration varies widely from State to State.
With about 12 years being the normal design life of modern cars, 25 years is about double and therefore a car that's reached 25 is a rare survivor, and probably not economic to maintain as regular transportation.
The term Classic Car is often used synonymously with the term Antique car, but the formal definition of that term is restricted to specific high-quality vehicles from the pre-World War II era which began with the Great Depression in 1930 and ended with the recovery after World War II in 1948. The Classic Car Club of America (CCCA) defines the term Classic as a “fine" or "distinctive" automobile, either American or foreign built, produced between 1925 and 1948. A Classic was high-priced when it was introduced and was built in very limited quantities. Although, by 1930’s most of the manufacturing technologies had already been invented, certain factors like including engine displacement, custom coachwork and luxury accessories, such as power brakes, power clutch, and automatic lubrication systems, help determine whether a car can be considered a Classic.
Some exemplary pre-war Antique Classics are:
1. 1934–1940 Bugatti Type 57. The Type 57SC has become the singular classic car.
2. 1934 Citroën Traction Avant. Has the distinction of being the first mass-produced front-wheel drive car,
3. 1936 MG T series, a sports car meant especially for American soldiers fighting in the war.
4. 1938 Volkswagen Beetle, the most-famous automobile of all times. It was a pre-war design that continues to exist even in the present times.
The CCCA Club keeps a thorough list of the vehicles they consider Classics, and while any member may petition for a vehicle to join the list, such applications are carefully scrutinized and very rarely is a new vehicle type admitted. They also acknowledge the fact that their rather exclusive definition of a classic car is by no means universally followed and hence they generally use terms such as “CCCA Classic” or the trademarked “Full Classic” to avoid confusion.
After 1930 the number of auto manufacturers came down sharply, as the industry consolidated, and developed after the war more advances in engine design were made, like the compression V8 engines and modern bodies from General Motors, Oldsmobile and Cadillac brands.
www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
Thursday, December 21, 2006
Up Your Used Car Value By Stopping Rust
Up Your Used Car Value By Stopping Rust Part 1
by: Barbara Thorp
Rust is rust. It's unsightly, it speaks of neglect and inevitable decay. And no one likes it. Certainly not on cars, whether used cars or new. After all, we want our cars looking shiny and brand-new, just as it was when it left the car dealer lot.
When it comes to buying used cars, no one wants to buy a rust bucket. Rust radically depreciates your used car's resale value. So, whether want to buy used car or a new one, the trick is keeping rust from taking root in your car.
Three basic steps are:
FIND RUST
KEEP IT FROM STARTING
ATTEND TO IT ONCE IT HAS STARTED
Most people shopping around at the used car dealer lot fail to detect rust simply because they don't know where to spot it. Of course, you can't expect the dealer to be upfront about rust in their used cars for sale. One needs to understand then how rust usually starts and where it is most likely to emerge.
How Rust Starts
Rust usually begins through the chips and nicks your car receives from the pebbles and stones that hit it during daily driving. With a small nick exposing bare metal in an unnoticeable location, it is just a matter of time until rust forms.
Left unchecked long enough, this tiny nick will eat its way through to the other side. When this happens you have problems because once a rust hole starts, it cannot be stopped. It can only be slowed down.
Where to Look For Rust
The most likely areas to check for rust are in and around the wheel wells, and on the fenders immediately behind the tyres. These are the war zones where your tyres will kick up stones and chip the paint. The front of your car can also catch flying stones from other cars, making this a problem area as well.
The next time you're looking at used cars for sale, use a torch to look underneath the car, and behind the front and rear tyres on both sides. Of course, before you do this make sure the car is parked on a level surface in park/gear and the emergency brake on. If it is on a slope, put blocks under the wheels for added safety. Shine your light on the inside of the fenders and wheel wells.
Another word to the wise for those who buy used car
Avoid cars with fresh paint. Think about it: no one paints a car just because the colour has faded a little. It was painted because either it was in an accident or it had a rust problem or worse yet - both! A crash repairer can hide a lot of sin with paint and body filler
Other rust-prone places to check when buying a used car are the exterior flooring under the driver's and passenger's seats, the interior flooring underneath the carpeting/matting, under the carpeting/matting in the boot, and around the engine compartment. Use your torch, your eyes, and your fingers!
www.CarsNet.com
by: Barbara Thorp
Rust is rust. It's unsightly, it speaks of neglect and inevitable decay. And no one likes it. Certainly not on cars, whether used cars or new. After all, we want our cars looking shiny and brand-new, just as it was when it left the car dealer lot.
When it comes to buying used cars, no one wants to buy a rust bucket. Rust radically depreciates your used car's resale value. So, whether want to buy used car or a new one, the trick is keeping rust from taking root in your car.
Three basic steps are:
FIND RUST
KEEP IT FROM STARTING
ATTEND TO IT ONCE IT HAS STARTED
Most people shopping around at the used car dealer lot fail to detect rust simply because they don't know where to spot it. Of course, you can't expect the dealer to be upfront about rust in their used cars for sale. One needs to understand then how rust usually starts and where it is most likely to emerge.
How Rust Starts
Rust usually begins through the chips and nicks your car receives from the pebbles and stones that hit it during daily driving. With a small nick exposing bare metal in an unnoticeable location, it is just a matter of time until rust forms.
Left unchecked long enough, this tiny nick will eat its way through to the other side. When this happens you have problems because once a rust hole starts, it cannot be stopped. It can only be slowed down.
Where to Look For Rust
The most likely areas to check for rust are in and around the wheel wells, and on the fenders immediately behind the tyres. These are the war zones where your tyres will kick up stones and chip the paint. The front of your car can also catch flying stones from other cars, making this a problem area as well.
The next time you're looking at used cars for sale, use a torch to look underneath the car, and behind the front and rear tyres on both sides. Of course, before you do this make sure the car is parked on a level surface in park/gear and the emergency brake on. If it is on a slope, put blocks under the wheels for added safety. Shine your light on the inside of the fenders and wheel wells.
Another word to the wise for those who buy used car
Avoid cars with fresh paint. Think about it: no one paints a car just because the colour has faded a little. It was painted because either it was in an accident or it had a rust problem or worse yet - both! A crash repairer can hide a lot of sin with paint and body filler
Other rust-prone places to check when buying a used car are the exterior flooring under the driver's and passenger's seats, the interior flooring underneath the carpeting/matting, under the carpeting/matting in the boot, and around the engine compartment. Use your torch, your eyes, and your fingers!
www.CarsNet.com
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