Face of the Sun Classic Car & Cycle Show!

Hey Gang!

Our Annual Labor Day show was looking like a great one; then Mother Nature decided that was too easy for San Diego. Motha Nature decided to make Qualcomm Stadium and the rest of San Diego as HOT as the face of the Sun!!! The phone was ringing off the hook until the Wednesday before Labor Day when the humidity and temperatures started to rise and rise. Then the Weather predictors starting warning people of an Extreme Heat Situation, always great for boosting attendance!!! Stay out of the Sun is at all possible was their mantra and me with an outdoor event in the lot at Qualcomm Stadium, not good.

Despite the extreme heat (triple digits all over San Diego and Monsoon humidity) the traffic was good coming early into the show. It looked like it was a gonna be a rockin' classic car show then around 10am, once the Sun was starting to really heat up, the people just stopped coming. It was so abrupt I actually drove up to the main entrance to the Stadium to make sure it was closed! Seems the heat just scared everyone to stay inside or to the beach.

I was really proud of how many people hung tough and stayed the course. 100+ degree heat can't stop a real Gear Head! lol. We even had two hot chicks in bikinis to help with the trophy presentation. Hot Chicks and Kool Kars, it was a great way to say farewell to summer and move on to our next show on Sunday, November 18 at Qualcomm Stadium.

Check out the great pics and videos from shows at www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com

See Ya There!

"Big Ray" Taylor

July 1 San Diego Auto Swap

Sunday July 1, 2007, the San Diego Auto Swap is the date for the next Car & Cycle Show and & Swap at Qualcomm Stadium.

The San Diego Auto & Cycle Show, Swap & Sale has been serving Vehicle Hobbyist since 1990 with its Hi Performance Car & Cycle Open Air Marketplace and Show. Qualcomm Stadium is the place where thousands go to find great wheels and deals. There are always hundreds of classic and collectible vehicles in the Show & Sale area, plus acres of vendors selling thousands of parts and accessories in the Swap Meet area -- all at this open air event. In addition to the dozens of trophies and prizes awarded at these events, there will also be a distinctive "Best of Show" trophy with a $100 cash prize.

All the San Diego Auto Swap events are free for active military. Its their way of supporting our troops. Active military just need to show their ID to gain free entry. This offer is good for show and swap meet spaces also.

The next San Diego Auto Swap will be held on Sunday, July 1 from 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. Vendor spaces are only $30 (prepaid), to show or sale a car is just $15, cycles $10 and general admission is $5, with parking and kids under 13 free.

Qualcomm Stadium is located at 9449 Friars Road, San Diego, CA 92108 at the intersection of I-8 and I-15 in the Mission Valley area of San Diego. The best time for media coverage is between 8 a.m. and Noon. The media contact number for the day of the event is (858) 837-1246.

For more information contact: Ray Taylor, 13223 Black Mtn. Road, #1-344, San Diego, CA 92129, (858) 484-9342, Fax (858) 484-7020,or go to their web site www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com.

San Diego Auto & Cycle Swap Event Dates:
Future 2007 Dates:

Sunday, July 1
Sunday, August 5
Labor Day, Monday, September 3
Sunday, October 21
Sunday, November 18 Toys For Tots

The following is a typical listing for their events:

California, San Diego, Ray Taylor presents the San Diego Auto & Cycle Swap, Show & Sale, from 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. at Qualcomm Stadium, 9449 Friars Road, where I-8 and I-15 meet in San Diego, California 92108. Show trophies, cash prizes and entertainment, free continental breakfast for pre-paid sellers. General admission is still just $5 with parking and kids under 13 free. For more information: Ray Taylor, San Diego Auto & Cycle Swap, 13223 Black Mt. Rd., #1-344, San Diego, CA 92129, (858) 484-9342; Fax (858) 484-7020. www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com

"Grab A Friend, Bring A Neighbor and We'll See Ya There!"

Why I Like Classic Car & Cycle People!

While watching the TV news, I was appalled at how many people can't just get along, to quote Rodney King. It is truly a very sad situation. Then I thought about all the different types of people we have at our event and how well they all get along.

In the 18 years we have been doing our events, we have never had any trouble with the participants at our shows. Bikers, Low Riders, Classic Cars, Hot Rodders, Sports Cars types and Tuner owners, they all attend our classic car & cycle show and all of them have a great time. Don't get me wrong, they all have different likes and dislikes, but they are tolerant of their fellow gear heads.

The world could learn a lot from Gear Heads! Learn to appreciate the other person's point of view. Low Riders always draw a crowd when they put their vehicles through their "dance". Now I'm not at all interested in having a car that hops, but I sure can appreciate the work and engineering that goes into allowing thousands of pounds of Chevy to bounce six feet off the ground. I also don't want a car with 1000 horsepower with a blower sticking out of the hood. but I sure do enjoy checking out those types of cars at the car shows.

The way I see it, we are all different and we should revel in these differences not curse them. Diversity makes the world an interesting and fun place to live in. It's a shame that some people feel its either their way or the highway. Whether its religion, politics or drive trains, we all need to love our neighbors and that which makes them unique.

If the world was made of Classic Car and Cycle People, what a wonderful place it would be!

See Ya There!

Ray Taylor
Owner of the San Diego Auto Swap and the Classic Cars Net Free Classifieds

http://www.CarsNet.com
http://www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com

A Fix For Classic Car Show Powering Voting

A Fix For Classic Car Show Power Voting
by: Ray Taylor

As I wrote in a previous article, "Classic Car Show Power Voting", there has been a real challenge at my San Diego Classic Car & Cycle Show & Swap with Power Voting. I think I may have found a way to help reduce the imbalance in voting results at People's Choice type of Car Shows.

For those who don't know, Power Voting is when groups such as Car Clubs go to a People's Choice Type Car Show and vote for all their club members and no one else. I believe people should be able to vote for whomever they please. The challenge comes about when those attending the event don't participate by casting their votes for their favorite vehicles. Without a large number of votes being cast, Power Voting can sway the results so the majority of the trophies go to the Power Voting Group.

Voter Apathy strikes again! I think I have found a fix that will help make the voting results more equitable for all entries.

I am going to start doing at my Car Shows what the state of New Mexico is doing to help encourage their people to get out and vote. They bribe them! How? When they vote, they are entered into a Voter's Lottery! That's exactly what I am going to do too!!! When you cast your vote at my events from now, on you will receive a ticket for a Special Raffle just for Voters! Bribery works well with politicians; I think it will help cancel out the effects of Power Voting.

If you have any questions or suggestions about this new addition to my shows, please feel free to contact me. I really appreciate and enjoy hearing your ideas and feedback.

On Memorial Day, Monday, May 28 from 6am to 2pm we will be holding our Annual "Salute Our Troops" Classic Car & Cycle Show & Swap in the SW lot of San Diego Qualcomm Stadium. All Active Military will be given Free entry. If they are in Uniform, I will also treat them to Free Refreshments.

Please come out on Memorial Day, Monday, May 28 and show your support!

Grab A Friend, Bring a G.I., and We'll See Ya There!


Ray Taylor
www.CarsNet.com

MOTORCYCLE TIRE BASICS

MOTORCYCLE BALANCING ACT

© Tony Foale 1986 -- 1997

Let's return to basics and look at the mechanisms of stability and steering,
as they relate to single track vehicles (motorcycles in other words).

BALANCE.

As a single track vehicle, a motorcycle lacks inherent static balance, i.e.
it falls over, if left to its own devices when stationary.

Once moving above a certain speed however even the most uncoordinated riders
find that the machine seems to support itself. So it is obvious that there are
two aspects of the balance process, the low speed case and that in the higher
speed ranges. There have always been clever sods who can balance indefinitely
on a stationary bike, but for most of us we need a minimum of forward motion
before this is possible. However, at these low speeds it is necessary to move
the handlebars from side to side to stay upright, and as all trials riders know,
it is easier if we stand on the footrests instead of sitting down. Let's examine
why. Now, if the combined centre of gravity (C.of G.) is vertically above the
line joining the front and rear tyre contact patches, then balance is achieved,
but this is an unstable situation, any small distubance such as a light breeze
will be enough to start a topple over, i.e. the C.of G. moves sideways.

This can be prevented by either of two methods or a combination of both, one
is to move the tyre contact patch line to under the new position of the C.of
G. If the bike is stationary this can only be done to a limited extent by moving
the bars, however once under way we can steer the bike to place the position
of the tyre line wherever we need it, and this is why it is easier to balance
when moving. The other way to maintain low speed balance is by moving the combined
C.of G. of both the rider and machine to above the line joining the tyre contact
patches. This is what trials riders are doing when moving their bodies from
side to side whilst standing up. The high C.of G. of the rider has more effect
on the toppling over moment and also gives more control over the position of
the bike's C.of G. Thus to a great extent the process of low speed balance is
dependent on the individual skill of the rider. In addition, some bike parameters
can also affect the ease of remaining upright, the main ones being:

# 1. A low C.of G height helps.

# 2. A large trail changes the position of the tyre line more for a given handlebar
movement.

# 3. A small rake angle reduces the fall of the steering head when the bars
are turned away from the straight ahead position, assisting with the balance
process.

The balance mechanism at higher speeds is more complex, but at least is largely
automatic and independent of rider ability. To understand the action it is necessary
to look at a few properties of gyroscopes, which is another way of describing
spinning motorcycle wheels.

A spinning wheel has a very stable axis of rotation, i.e. a strong tendency
to maintain its plane of rotation. In other words, while it can easily be moved
laterally along the axis of spin, it resists tilting about any other axis, and
more importantly, when it is tilted it automatically causes a strong twisting
moment about an axis at 90 degrees to that of the original tilt. This twisting
effect increases as the speed of the wheel rises, this is known as gyroscopic
precession. When you have finished reading this, I expect you to go and remove
the front wheel from your brother's mountain-bike, if you then obey the following
intructions you will get a graphic practical demonstration of the strength of
these precessional forces, which are so vital to the balance and steering of
any bike. Firstly hold the wheel upright, as in, get your young brother (well
he won't be out riding, will he?) to spin it so that the top of the wheel is
moving away from you, as if it were the front wheel of a machine you were riding.
If you then try to tilt the spindle to the LEFT (equivalent to banking your
machine) you will find that the wheel _turns instantly and strongly to the LEFT,
as if steered by an invisible hand. In other words, your attempt to tilt the
wheel about its fore-and-aft axis has produced a torque swivelling it about
its vertical axis. Now start again but this time turn the wheel to the LEFT
about a vertical axis, just as sharply and strongly it will bank to the RIGHT.
Try both these manoeuvres again, but do it at different wheel speeds and tilting
speeds, you will see that the precessional forces depend strongly on these factors.
Note particularly, the directions in which these forces operate as this is important
for the automatic retention of balance. Let us now see how these forces keep
the machine balanced and on a relatively straight path without assistance from
the rider. Suppose the bike, whilst travelling along at a normal speed, starts
to fall to the left under the action of some extraneous influence. As we have
just seen, gyroscopic precession of the front wheel immediately turns it to
the left. This sets the machine on a curved path (to the left), so creating
a centrifugal force (to the right), which counters the lean and tends to restore
the machine to the vertical, the precessional forces are thus reversed tending
to restore the steering to the straight ahead position. In practice, that which
we regard as riding in a straight line, is really a series of balance correcting
wobbles, if we could look at the actual paths taken by the centre-lines of the
wheels, we should see that the front wheel path continually crosses that of
the rear. In the explanation above, I have only described the effects on the
front wheel, precessional forces are at work on the rear also, but it is much
harder to steer the rear wheel independently, as the whole bike must yaw, rather
than just the wheel and forks, as on the front. Hence, only a small contribution
is made to the auto-balance mechanism by the rear. We have now considered balance
in a straight line, but as we lean when cornering, there must be other factors
at work to maintain equilibrium under these conditions.

STEERING (CORNERING).

To analyse this, we can divide it into two phases;-

1. Initiating the turn,

2. Maintaining the turn.

Since the second phase is easier to analyse, let's look at it first. It is
not feasible to steer a motorcycle through a corner in a substantially upright
position, as in a car or side-car outfit, because the centrifugal force generated
would cause it to fall outward. Hence we must bank the bike inward so that this
tendency is counteracted by the machines weight tending to make it fall inward.

Equilibrium is achieved when the angle of lean is such as to balance the two
opposing moments, the one due to centrifugal force acting outward, and the other
to gravitational force acting downward (both acting through the C.of G.). The
actual angle, which depends on the radius of the turn and the speed of the machine,
is that at which the resultant of the two forces passes through a line joining
the front and rear tyre contact patches. This is the steady-state roll axis.
But how do we actually initiate the turn - do we lean or do we steer first?
Let's see what happens with each method. If we turn the handle-bar in the direction
in which we want to go, both centrifugal force and the front wheel precession
would cause the bike to topple outward, and that leads to gravel rash. But if
we momentarily try to turn the bar quickly in the opposite direction, (sometimes
known as counter steering) then these two forces will combine to bank the machine
to the correct side. Gravity will then augment the banking effect and this,
in turn, will give rise to gyroscopic forces helping to steer the front wheel
into the curve, whereupon the processes for maintaining balance as described
above take over and keep the bike on our chosen path. This is all very well,
I hear you say, but if this is the way to corner, how come we can steer a bike
no-hands. Well, it certainly is possible to do so, but only with a lot more
difficulty. Precise control and tight turns are difficult to accomplish without
handle-bar manipulation. Just try it! Let's consider the no-hands situation.
As we saw earlier, simply banking the bike steers the front wheel in the correct
direction automatically, through precession. But how do we make the bike lean
in the first place, what do we have to push against? There is nothing solid
to push against and so the only way to apply bank (without the facility of steering),
is to push against the machine with the inertia of our own body. This means
in practice, that in order to lean the bike to the right, we must initially
move our body to the left. So now we have two possible methods of initiating
a turn, and it is interesting to note that in both of them (banking and reverse
handle-bar torque) our physical effort is in the opposite sense to that which
might be thought natural, but when learning we adapt quickly and the required
action becomes subconsciously automatic. It is these reverse actions that require
us to learn to ride in the first place, when learning most of us wobble about
out of control until our brain latches on to the fact that counter-steering
and counter-leaning is the way to do it. Once the brain has switched into reverse
gear, it becomes instinctive and is usually with us for life, and we could return
to riding after a long layoff with no need to relearn the art of balancing or
steering. So which of these two possible methods of initiating a turn do we
use in practice? We probably subconsciously combine both methods, and the pressure
on the inner handgrip is partly forward (counter-steering) and partly downward
(banking). Remember though, that the actual counter-steering movement is very
small, since gyroscopic precession depends for its strength on the speed of
movement not on the amount of movement. If you still don't believe that steering
to the opposite side works, then next time you are out riding, try jerking the
bars quickly to one side, and see what happens. Leave yourself plenty of road
if your reactions are a bit on the slow side. Do this at about 40 mph., and
don't blame me if you fall off. The relative proportions with which we combine
the two methods depend partly on riding style but also on speed and machine
characteristics. For example, a heavy machine with light wheels at low speeds
demands a different technique from that applicable to a light weight machine
with heavy wheels at high speeds, and hence the two machines will have a different
feel. But humans adapt quickly and the correct technique soon becomes second
nature. It may seem strange that in the above discussion no mention has been
made of such important parameters as, steering geometry, wheel and tyre size,
wheelbase, frame stiffness and so on. This is simply because, balance and the
ability to start and maintain a turn can be achieved within a wide range of
these parameters. That is not to say that these factors are unimportant. We
shall now look a little more closely at one of the more important parameters
that come under the heading of steering geometry, i.e. TRAIL. Consider first,
which shows the basics of steering geometry.

TRAIL.

The primary function of this, it is often said, is to build in a certain amount
of straight line stability, in addition to that obtained by precessional effects
as described above. But trail also introduces other effects which are vital
to the feel and handling of the motorcycle.

If the wheel gets displaced from the straight ahead position, i.e. the wheel
is at an angle to the direction of travel (slip angle is the technical term),
a force at right angles to the tyre is generated. Since the contact patch is
behind the steering axis (positive trail) then this force acts on a lever arm
(approximately equal to the trail) to provide a correcting torque to the angled
wheel. That is to say, if the steering is deflected by some cause e.g. uneven
road surface, then positive trail automatically counter-acts the displacement
and gives a measure of directional stability. However, as shown earlier, we
cannot just consider any steering effect in isolation, gyroscopic forces must
be considered also, suffice to say, at this stage, that in this case trail and
precession work in harmony to keep us on the straight and narrow.

One may be forgiven for initially thinking, that because the rear wheel trail
is much greater than that of the front, the rear wheel is the more important
in this respect. The reverse is actually the case for several reasons.

Imagine that the contact patch of each wheel is, in turn, displaced sideways
by the same amount (say ½ inch.). The front wheel will then be turned
by approximately 7-10 degrees (depending on the value of trail) about the steering
axis, this gives rise to a slip angle of the same amount and generates a sideways
force that has only the relatively small inertia of the front wheel and forks
to accelerate back to the straight-ahead position. But the slip angle of the
displaced rear wheel will be much less (about ½ degree) and so the restoring
force will be reduced accordingly, but this also has to act on the inertia of
a major proportion of the machine and rider, hence the response is much slower
than is the case with the front wheel. From this, we can see that increasing
the trail as a means of increasing the restoring tendency on the wheels is subject
to the law of diminishing returns. It must also be emphasized that the distubance
to a machine's direction of travel, due to a sideways displacement of the tyre
contact patch, is less from the rear wheel than the front because of the much
smaller angle to the direction of travel that the displacement causes. To summerize,
while the large trail of the rear wheel has a relatively small restoring effect,
the effect of rear wheel displacement on directional stability is also small,
and hence compensates. As mentioned before, trail has effects other than directional
stability, let's look at a couple of the more important ones.

STEERING EFFECT.

If we lean a stationary machine to one side and then turn the handlebars, we
find that the steering head rises and falls depending on the position of the
steering. In motion, the effective weight of the bike and rider supported by
the steering head, is reacted to the ground through the tyre contact patch.
This force tends to turn the steering to the position where the steering head
is lowest (i.e. the position of minimum potential energy). For a given amount
of trail, this steering angle is affected by rake angle and wheel diameter,
one reason why different size wheels feel different, if all else remains the
same. As long as we have positive trail, as is normal, then this turning effect
is into the corner. Thus the amount of front wheel trail affects the amount
of steering torque that the rider must apply (hence the feel of the steering)
to maintain the correct steering angle consistant with the radius of the turn
and the bike's speed. Some bikes seem to need to be held down into a corner,
whilst others need the opposite approach. This is also influenced heavily by
tyre characteristics, but that will have to wait for another occasion.

STRAIGHT LINE FEEL.

As we all know, even when we are riding straight ahead the steering feels lighter
on wet and slippery roads than on dry. This is because as we have seen, our
seemingly straight line is actually a series of balance correcting curves, with
the handlebars turning minutely from side to side all the time. Also as we have
seen, a small steering displacement produces a slip angle, which causes a restoring
torque. For a given slip angle, this torque depends on tyre properties, surface
adhesion and trail. On slippery surfaces the correcting torque is less, thus
through the handlebars, we get a feedback (dependent on trail) for the amount
of grip available. A bike with only a small trail value may give too much of
a sense of slipperiness in the wet, and give the rider a certain degree of apprehension,
whereas on the other hand, a large trail, under these conditions, may give out
a feeling of security, which can easily engender overconfidence with predictable
results.

www.CarsNet.com

Classic Car Show Power Voting

Classic Car Show Power Voting

by: Ray Taylor

I received a call from a very nice lady after our last event. She was concerned and confused. She was concerned with the number of trophies won by Clubs. She was also confused as to how club members seemed to win a majority of the trophies. I then explained Power Voting to her. Here's what I said.

Power Voting is when all the group/club members vote for all the other club members in the show. This almost guarantees the club will have lots of winners. The reason that this small group of 10 to 30 club members can sway the results is the same reason we end up with lousy politicians Apathy!

Not voting puts the results in the hands of a few rather than the many. Power Voting would be ineffective at Car Shows if a majority of the attendees would take the time to check out the cars and vote for their favorites. If the General Public would just do that, then Power Voting would be of little consequence. But if the General Public doesn't want to be bothered with voting, then Power Voting can absolutely affect the outcome of the trophies awarded.

I know some of you are thinking, "Why not have trophy classes? Won't that help?" We tried having trophy classes for years. It just didn't work and was really unfair to some. One time we would have dozens of cars in the Street Rod Class, then the next time only a few. This was true for almost every show where we had classes. One class would be overloaded and another under represented. Then when we changed things, the problem still existed only in different classes. We felt like a dog chasing its tail trying to keep the classes balanced. It just didn't work. So now we do a People's Choice Award system: if the people like your ride AND they vote for it, you win! The best ideas are always the simplest: get the most votes, and you get Best of Show. This has resulted in the usual outcome, like the Low Rider Bike winning Best of Show in January. The people loved his bike, and he got the most votes so he Won! It's that simple.

For our part, we will continue to ask people to take a ballot and vote for their top 10 favorite vehicles. If they don't, then groups/clubs will control the outcome of the People's Choice Awards at any Car Show. Please do your part, come out on Monday, Memorial Day, May 28 to the next San Diego Car & Cycle Show & Swap at the Q and VOTE!.

See Ya There!

Ray Taylor

Owner of the San Diego Classic Car & Cycle-Show & Swap

and Classic Cars Net Free Classifieds

Urgent Legislation Alert Update!

URGENT LEGISLATION ALERT UPDATE!
March 13, 2007
My Fellow Gear Heads!
The people in Sacramento are still at it! Please read the following from our friends at SEMA and ACT! It's up to us to protect the hobby and vehicles we love!

URGENT LEGISLATION ALERT !

Attention California Members:
Here is a preview copy of the April Driving Force article regarding A.B. 616. The complete version of the newsletter will be sent to you later this month.

Thank you,

Jason Tolleson
jasont@sema.org
202/783-6007, ext. 39

=====

Driving Force - April 2007 Issue (PREVIEW)



California Proposes ANNUAL Emissions Tests for
Vehicles 15-Years Old and Older
Pre-1976 Vehicles Would Continue to be Exempt From Smog Check

Enthusiasts in California are rallying against legislation that has been introduced in the State Assembly by Assemblyman Dave Jones to require annual Smog check inspections for vehicles 15-years old and older. In addition, the bill would direct funds generated through the additional inspection fees to be deposited into an account which can be used to scrap older cars. The bill has been referred to the Assembly Transportation Committee for consideration.

The measure represents another attempt by California legislators and regulators to scapegoat older cars for air quality deficiencies. In 2004, despite objections from the vehicle hobby community, California repealed its rolling emissions-test exemption for vehicles 30 years old and older and replaced it with a law requiring the lifetime testing of all 1976 and newer model-year vehicles.

“Under this year’s bill, pre-1976 vehicles would continue to be exempt from Smog Check”, said Steve McDonald, SEMA Vice President of Government Affairs. “However, vehicles 15 years old and older - currently 1976 through 1992 - that are not currently exempt would move from a biennial test to annual tests with the clear intent of moving them into the scrappage program.”

Sponsors of the legislation ignore the fact that vehicles 15-years old and older still constitute a small portion of the overall vehicle population and are a poor source from which to look for emissions reduction. Legislators are also ignoring the fact that classic vehicles are overwhelmingly well-maintained and infrequently driven.

“Implementing an annual test would not only increase the cost to the vehicle owner, it would also give the state more opportunities to lure these vehicles into retirement,” added McDonald.

Recently, San Joaquin Valley Air Pollution Control District released an updated smog plan that calls for scrapping 30,000 passenger cars, five times the number previously planned. Scrappage programs, widely rejected by other states as an ineffective means of cleaning the air, accelerate the normal demise of vehicles through the purchase of older cars which are then typically crushed into blocks of scrap metal.

“By virtue of these scrappage programs, the vehicle hobby risks the loss of potential collector cars and parts forever that could have been used in a project,” commented SAN Director Jason Tolleson.




==============================






Do nothing and we could all loose our rides to the system. Like I said, it's up to us to Save Our Rides!

Write, Call or/and Email your representative today and tell them how you feel.


Visit The San Diego Auto Swap Website
Be sure and check out all the Great Wheels and Deals on our NEW FREE Classified Site. Just go to www.CarsNet.com , register, login, type in your ad, upload your photos and Bada Bing! your ad is up on the Internet. Try It, Its FREE!!!

Promote Your Business! Ad Space Is Available On Our Memorial Day, May 28 Auto Swap Flier. This flier will be in the Goodie Bags at the Del Mar Good Guys Event! Reserve Your Space Today Is The Last Day, Only One Space Left! Call Now!

See Ya At Da "Q" on Sunday, March 25


Ray Taylor
The CARS Net

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

email: ray@carsnet.com
phone: 858-484-9342
web: www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The Engine Explained

The Engine Explained

by: Kevin Schappell

The engine is the heart of your car, but instead of pumping blood, the engine pumps air and fuel. The engines main function is to convert air and fuel into rotary motion so it can drive the wheels of the car. How does it do that ??.... Well let's start with a cutaway of the engine and see all the major parts then we will get into the actual mechanics.

Pistons: Most common engines have 4, 6, or 8 pistons, which move up and down in the cylinders. On the upper side of the piston is what is called the combustion chamber where the fuel and air mix before ignited. On the other side is the crankcase, which is full of oil. Pistons have rings which serve to keep the oil out of the combustion chamber and the fuel and air out of the oil.

Crankshaft: The crankshaft is connected to the pistons via a connecting rod. As the piston moves up and down in the cylinder it rotates the crankshaft and converts the straight line motion into rotary motion.

Valve train: The valve train consists of valves, rocker arms, pushrods, lifters, and the camshaft. (shown in above picture in blue, yellow, and green) The valve train’s only job is that of a traffic cop. It lets air and fuel in and out of the engine at the proper time. The timing is controlled by the camshaft, which is synchronized to the crankshaft by a chain or belt.

Now that we have a general overview of the parts involved let's talk about what happens. Most automotive engine today are 4-stroke (or 4-cycle) engines, meaning they have four distinct events which make up the cycle.

Intake stroke: The camshaft opens the intake valve and the piston moves down the cylinder. This creates vacuum and sucks in air and fuel into the combustion chamber above the piston.

Compression stroke: As the piston starts moving back up the cylinder the intake valve closes and seals off the combustion chamber. The causes the air and fuel to compress.

Power stroke: As the fuel is compressed and the piston nears the top of the cylinder the spark plug fires and ignites the fuel and air. This explosion pushes the piston back down the cylinder and drives the crankshaft.

Exhaust stroke: After the piston reaches the bottom of the cylinder, the exhaust valve opens and the gasses left over from the fuel and air are sent out to the exhaust system.

Put these four events together in the above order and you have a complete cycle. Are you asleep yet? That's enough theory, let's talk about the real world and problems you might encounter with the above mentioned parts.

Pistons: Remember I talked about the rings, which seal the combustion chamber from the crankcase. The rings over time tend to wear out. When they wear they allow the fuel and air to enter into the oil and dilute it. This dilution reduces the oils ability to lubricate your engine and can cause premature wear. Also if the rings wear down they can allow oil from the crankcase to enter the combustion chambers. This will result in oil being burned and exiting your tailpipe as grayish/white smoke. If your car spews grayish white smoke and it does not go stop in the first few minutes after start-up you might have warn rings. If the smoke goes away after start-up look to the valve train section.

Crankshaft: The crankshaft rides on bearings, which can wear down over time. The bearings support the crankshaft and also the rods, which connect the pistons to the crankshaft. A loud medium pitched knocking noise in the engine points to warn bearings most of the time. This is usually a costly repair and involves removing the crankshaft and either machining the surface where the bearings ride, or replacing the entire crankshaft. To prevent this type of problem, use a high quality oil, change your oil at suggested intervals (3 months or 3000 miles is a safe number) and always maintain your oil level between oil changes.

Valve train: Remember the oil smoke problem mentioned above in the piston sections. If your car only smokes grayish/white smoke at start-up you may have leaking valve seals. Valve seals keep oil from above the valve from leaking into the combustion chamber. When they wear, they can allow oil to seep into the combustion chamber and collect there until your start the engine again. You generally do not get oil leaking past the valve seals while the engine is running since the seals expand with the heat of the engine and plug the leak.

Another common problem is the timing chain or belt will slip or even break causing the cam shaft to stop rotating. Remember the camshaft tells the valves when to open and if it stops spinning then the valves stop opening and closing. No valve moving, no engine running :-)

A term you will here when talking about timing chains and belts is "interference engine". When an engine is an "interference engine" the pistons and valves are so close together that if the valves were to stop moving (broken belt or chain) and the crankshaft kept spinning they would crash into the piston. (that's the interference) This crash tends to do bad things to an engine, breaking valve, bending pushrods, and even cracking pistons. This is why most manufacturers recommend changing the timing chain or belt every 60,000 miles. Timing belts dry out, stretch and deteriorate over time so even if you do not have 60,000 miles on the car think about changing the belt after it's 6 years old.

Preventive Maintenance:

Change your oil regularly.

Give your engine a chance to warm up before driving if possible. Let the oil get into all parts of the engine before driving. This is even more critical in cooler temperatures when the oil is cold and sluggish.

Change your timing belt or chain at your manufacturer's recommended interval.

void "snake oil" additives advertised on late night TV. Regular oil changes and good maintenance habits will keep your engine running it's best.

If you have a turbo charged engine, give the engine a minute or two cool down before turning it off. This cool down period allows oil to circulate and cool down the bearings. If you shut off the engine immediately after hard driving, the oil can gum up around the hot bearings and create problems down the road.

What to discuss with your mechanic:

If you have to replace your engine, discuss the benefits of buying used versus new. If you plan on keeping your car for some time, a new engine might be the best bet. Sometimes new engines are not much more expensive than rebuilt ones, and offer the best solution.

When trying to diagnose engine noises, be as descriptive as possible. Take note to when the noise occurs; at what throttle position, and when the noise started occurring. Sometimes changing the weight of oil being used can cause a new noise to crop up. Make sure you mechanic knows if you changed oil brands or weight recently.

www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com

URGENT LEGISLATION ALERT

Jason Tolleson, jasont@sema.org
SEMA 202/783-6007, ext. 39

URGENT LEGISLATIVE ALERT

California Introduces Bill to Require ANNUAL Emissions Tests
for Vehicles 15-Years Old and Older

Here we go again! Legislation (A.B. 616) has been introduced in the California Assembly by Assemblyman Dave Jones to require annual Smog check inspections for vehicles 15-years old and older. The bill would also require that funds generated through the additional inspection fees be deposited into an account which can be used to scrap older cars. You may recall that in 2004 a new law was enacted in California to require the lifetime testing of all 1976 and newer model-year vehicles. Pre-1976 motor vehicles would remain exempt under A.B. 616. The bill has been referred to the Assembly Transportation Committee.

We Urge You to Contact Assemblyman Jones and members of the Assembly Transportation Committee (List Below) Immediately to Oppose A.B. 616

A.B. 616 ignores the minimal impact vintage cars have on air quality.


A.B. 616 could entice vintage car owners into allowing these vehicles to be scrapped.


A.B. 616 ignores the fact that vehicles 15-years old and older still constitute a small portion of the overall vehicle population and are a poor source from which to look for emissions reduction.


A.B. 616 ignores the fact that classic vehicles are overwhelmingly well-maintained and infrequently driven.


A.B. 616 would increase costs by creating an annual inspection fee for owners of these vehicles.


A.B. 616 represents another attempt by California legislators and regulators to scapegoat older cars.
Please contact members of the California Assembly Transportation Committee immediately by phone, fax or e-mail to request their opposition to A.B. 616.

Please e-mail a copy of your letter to stevem@sema.org. Thank you for your assistance.


Assembly Transportation Committee

Pedro Nava, Chair
Telephone: (916) 319-2035
Fax: (916) 319-2135
Email: Assemblymember.nava@assembly.ca.gov

Michael D. Duvall, Vice-Chair
Telephone: (916) 319-2072
Fax: (916) 319-2172
Email: Assemblymember.Duvall@assembly.ca.gov

Wilma Amina Carter
Telephone: (916) 319-2062
Fax: (916) 319-2162
Email: Assemblymember.Carter@assembly.ca.gov

Mike DeSaulnier
Telephone: (916) 319-2011
Fax: (916) 319-2111
Email: Assemblymember.DeSaulnier@assembly.ca.gov

Cathleen Galgiani
Tel: (916) 319-2017
Fax: (916) 319-2117
Email: Assemblymember.Galgiani@assembly.ca.gov

Martin Garrick
Telephone: (916) 319-2074
Fax: (916) 319-2174
Email: Assemblymember.Garrick@assembly.ca.gov

Shirley Horton
Telephone: (916) 319-2078
Email: Assemblymember.Shirley.Horton@assembly.ca.gov

Guy S. Houston
Telephone: (916) 319-2015
Fax: (916) 319-2115
Email: Assemblymember.Houston@assembly.ca.gov

Bob Huff
Telephone: (916) 319-2060
Fax: (916) 319-2160
Email: assemblymember.huff@assembly.ca.gov

Betty Karnette
Telephone: (916) 319-2054
Email: Assemblymember.Karnette@assembly.ca.gov

Anthony J. Portantino
Telephone: (916) 319-2044
Fax: (916) 319-2144
Email: assemblymember.Portantino@assembly.ca.gov

Ira Ruskin
Telephone: (916) 319 - 2021
Fax: (916) 319 – 2121
Email: Assemblymember.Ruskin@assembly.ca.gov

Jose Solorio
Telephone: (916) 319-2069
Fax: (916) 319-2169

Nell Soto
Telephone: (916) 319-2061
Fax: (916) 319-2161
Email: Assemblymember.Soto@assembly.ca.gov

SEMA's mailing address: 1575 S. Valley Vista Dr., Diamond Bar, CA 91765

www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com

Ca Introduces Bill to Require ANNUAL Emissions Tests for Vehicles 15-Years Old and Older

Jason Tolleson, jasont@sema.org
SEMA 202/783-6007, ext. 39

URGENT LEGISLATIVE ALERT

California Introduces Bill to Require ANNUAL Emissions Tests
for Vehicles 15-Years Old and Older

Here we go again! Legislation (A.B. 616) has been introduced in the California Assembly by Assemblyman Dave Jones to require annual Smog check inspections for vehicles 15-years old and older. The bill would also require that funds generated through the additional inspection fees be deposited into an account which can be used to scrap older cars. You may recall that in 2004 a new law was enacted in California to require the lifetime testing of all 1976 and newer model-year vehicles. Pre-1976 motor vehicles would remain exempt under A.B. 616. The bill has been referred to the Assembly Transportation Committee.

We Urge You to Contact Assemblyman Jones and members of the Assembly Transportation Committee (List Below) Immediately to Oppose A.B. 616

A.B. 616 ignores the minimal impact vintage cars have on air quality.


A.B. 616 could entice vintage car owners into allowing these vehicles to be scrapped.


A.B. 616 ignores the fact that vehicles 15-years old and older still constitute a small portion of the overall vehicle population and are a poor source from which to look for emissions reduction.


A.B. 616 ignores the fact that classic vehicles are overwhelmingly well-maintained and infrequently driven.


A.B. 616 would increase costs by creating an annual inspection fee for owners of these vehicles.


A.B. 616 represents another attempt by California legislators and regulators to scapegoat older cars.
Please contact members of the California Assembly Transportation Committee immediately by phone, fax or e-mail to request their opposition to A.B. 616.

Please e-mail a copy of your letter to stevem@sema.org. Thank you for your assistance.


Assembly Transportation Committee

Pedro Nava, Chair
Telephone: (916) 319-2035
Fax: (916) 319-2135
Email: Assemblymember.nava@assembly.ca.gov

Michael D. Duvall, Vice-Chair
Telephone: (916) 319-2072
Fax: (916) 319-2172
Email: Assemblymember.Duvall@assembly.ca.gov

Wilma Amina Carter
Telephone: (916) 319-2062
Fax: (916) 319-2162
Email: Assemblymember.Carter@assembly.ca.gov

Mike DeSaulnier
Telephone: (916) 319-2011
Fax: (916) 319-2111
Email: Assemblymember.DeSaulnier@assembly.ca.gov

Cathleen Galgiani
Tel: (916) 319-2017
Fax: (916) 319-2117
Email: Assemblymember.Galgiani@assembly.ca.gov

Martin Garrick
Telephone: (916) 319-2074
Fax: (916) 319-2174
Email: Assemblymember.Garrick@assembly.ca.gov

Shirley Horton
Telephone: (916) 319-2078
Email: Assemblymember.Shirley.Horton@assembly.ca.gov

Guy S. Houston
Telephone: (916) 319-2015
Fax: (916) 319-2115
Email: Assemblymember.Houston@assembly.ca.gov

Bob Huff
Telephone: (916) 319-2060
Fax: (916) 319-2160
Email: assemblymember.huff@assembly.ca.gov

Betty Karnette
Telephone: (916) 319-2054
Email: Assemblymember.Karnette@assembly.ca.gov

Anthony J. Portantino
Telephone: (916) 319-2044
Fax: (916) 319-2144
Email: assemblymember.Portantino@assembly.ca.gov

Ira Ruskin
Telephone: (916) 319 - 2021
Fax: (916) 319 – 2121
Email: Assemblymember.Ruskin@assembly.ca.gov

Jose Solorio
Telephone: (916) 319-2069
Fax: (916) 319-2169

Nell Soto
Telephone: (916) 319-2061
Fax: (916) 319-2161
Email: Assemblymember.Soto@assembly.ca.gov

SEMA's mailing address: 1575 S. Valley Vista Dr., Diamond Bar, CA 91765

www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com

Advantage Of Disc Brakes

Advantage Of Disc Brakes

by: Elli Potrelli


Whether you drive a Mercedes, a motorbike or a pickup truck, you probably have disc brakes on your vehicle. And even though you probably never think about their function, they are the single most important function on your vehicle. Though there are several types of motor brakes, the drum and the disk, the disk brakes are more commonly used. Disc brakes are far better than drum brakes because of their powerful stopping ability. Disc brakes handle substantially better in wet weather conditions. Why chance anything but the best?

What are Disc Brakes?

Put simply, disc brakes consist of two pads that grasp a rotating disk. The disk, or rotor, connects to the wheels by an axle. You control the grasping power. When you pull on the brake, the clamps come together on the disk, forcing it to stop spinning and causing your vehicle to slow down and eventually stop.

How Do You Control Disk Breaks?

In a car, controlling your disk brakes is as simple as pressing the brake pedal or pulling up on the emergency brake. For motorbikes, however, there are two ways to slow it down. You can use the right hand lever or the rear left foot lever. They actually work better when you use them together to better the efficiency and lengthen the life of the disc brakes and pads.

How To Maintain Disk Brakes?

Regardless of the type of vehicle you drive, you will probably need to consider break maintenance or replacement at some point. It is important to check the thickness of your brake pads. If these pads are bare they can cause pricey damage to your disc brakes.

You should also keep an eye on your vehicle’s brake fluid. Your vehicle will run more efficiently with the occasional dose of fresh break fluid.

Replacing the break pads and the disc brakes fairly easily on your own. Don’t hesitate to get help if you are unsure though. A simple mistake like a poorly fitted brake pad can cause scarring to your disk brake.

What Type of Damage is Possible To Your Disc Brakes?

There are several ways your break disks can show damage. They can warp, scar or crack. It’s best if you can catch these signs of damage early on and repair them as quickly as possible to limit further damage to your disk breaks. Unfortunately, once they crack, the disc brakes are not repairable. It also helps to get the help of a certified professional when it comes to making repairs to your disc brakes.

How Are Disc Brakes Designed?

These days, the designs of the disc brakes vary greatly. Some are made in classic solid steel, but others have special hallowed out sections that allow the extra built up heat to escape. These slotted steel wheels may help prolong the life of the discs because they reduce built-up heat and cut back on the possibility of warping. The creative designs are endless and each design has a different effect on the performance of your braking system.

www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com

How To Choose A Body Shop To Repair Your Car

How To Choose A Body Shop To Repair Your Car

by: Mark Freeman


Having been involved in an accident when my truck was only three months old, and then having re-painting done while restoring a ten year old vehicle, I've had some experience with body repair shops.

There are different types of body shops out there as we're all not looking for the same quality of work. The first rule I'll give you is that you get what you pay for. If you want to pay $599.00 to have your entire car painted, that's fine. It may be a huge improvement over how your car looked initially, but it wouldn't have suited me in either case mentioned above. I wanted that three month old truck to look like it looked the day I purchased it, and the paint on the hood of that ten year old sports car had to match the rest of the car perfectly.

The best way to find a body repair shop is the probably the same way you found your auto mechanic, word of mouth. Talk with friends and work associates, ask your mechanic. Talk to your neighbors and get their opinions. Everyone knows someone who's had a good, or bad experience. Listen when people talk about their cars and experiences they've had. I called the dealership where I had purchased my truck for a referral.

When you think that you've narrowed it down to a particular shop, check with the Better Business Bureau to see if any complaints have been lodged. Remember that you may find they have a few, but no business can keep everyone happy. Talk with the shop manager if you have any questions or concerns.

Take a look around the shop. Is is kept clean? It won't be sparkling clean due to the type of work, but you shouldn't see dust and filth and chemicals spilled on floors.

Ask to see their work. They should have before and after pictures of their work and will also have cars they are currently working on. Do they have letters of recommendation? A lot of business keep letters from happy customers.

Do they give any type of warranty? Some body shops offer a limited warranty.

Finally, use your gut. How are they interacting with you? Are they taking the time to answer your questions completely or do they seem put off by them? If they seem put off, it's time to look elsewhere.

www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com

Where To Find Classic Car Parts

Where To Find Classic Car Parts

by: Joel Noah


Classic car parts are not easy to come by. But if you have finally been able to purchase the classic car you’ve always dreamed of, finding the classic car parts to restore and accessorize it may be a high on your priority list.

Whether you have a muscle car, an antique or a vintage model, you will inevitably find the need to replace and restore some of your car parts. Classic car parts are not as readily available as for the cars that are still in production. You can’t just walk into a dealership and place your order because the parts are no longer being made. But with a little digging, they can be found.

Some places to start your search include:

Online Auctions

Online auction sites, such as Ebay, are probably the easiest place to begin your search for classic car parts. If you’ve seen the ads that Ebay has “It,” you know this is true. Ebay Motors has many listings for hard to find vehicles and classic car parts. You’ll have to cover the shipping charges, so that is something to consider when purchasing larger items.

Swap Meets

Finding a local swap meet may be just the thing you need to locate the classic car parts you need. They are great places to find older model accessories and other outdated items.

Classic Car Part Dealer Publications

Often times you can find the parts you are looking for in car part dealer magazines. The only drawback here is that you will probably have to spend top dollar. This option could be used as a last resort though if you are unable to find a specific part anywhere else. Exhaust all other possibilities first if money is tight.

Clubs and Organizations

Clubs and organizations exist for as many hobbies that people can think up. Certainly, there are a fair number of clubs and organizations geared toward car enthusiasts. Locating and joining one such club may prove beneficial in your hunt for classic car parts. You will be able to make connections with other people who share your interest.

In the Internet age, it is also possible to find a club or organization centered on classic car parts by doing an online search. Try searching Yahoo groups and you are likely to find a list of clubs you could join. Again, making connections with people who share your interest in classic car parts may lead you to a dealer or another source from which you can purchase classic car parts.

Junkyards

Maybe you don’t picture yourself hanging around a junkyard to find used classic car parts, but you may be able to find a diamond in the rough. If you have never used this type of service before, it could be worthwhile to check it out. Everything is computerized and usually a visit or a phone call is all you need to check and see if they have the part or accessory that you need for your precious investment.

Of course you will want to take good care of your classic car to limit the number of parts that you will need to search for. The less time you spend tracking down parts, the more time you can spend enjoying the car of your dreams.

www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com

Car Insurance - Cheap Auto Insurance Quotes

Car Insurance - Cheap Auto Insurance Quotes

by: Tywford Lamai

Cheap Auto Insurance quotes are designed in many different ways to cover your specific insurance needs. One needs to analyze these quotes in detail before making a decision. It also helps if you have basic knowledge on all or at least some aspects of cheap Auto Insurance. You can find literally hundreds of online resources offering you thousands of attractive cheap Auto Insurance quotes. But should you opt for them, just because they are cheap? It depends. When it comes to insurance, sometimes the cheapest policy is not the best way to go.

Attention! Have a look at the type of car you drive. Certain types of cars attract higher Car Insurance rates.

You need to know the rules, which govern your state, with regard to Auto Insurance. Certain states, for example, may require you to have comprehensive liability coverage, which is also known as third party liability in some countries. This covers you in case you are at a fault during an accident, whereas in other states, you are simply required to carry a ‘no-fault' policy.

Attention! Policy Period – This is the specific time period that the policy is effective. Some Car Insurance policies have an annual renewal and others have a six-month renewal.

Once you have chosen the cheap insurance quote that works for you, go through the entire policy in detail. Find out more about the coverage levels. You have to carefully study the general policy options. Next comes choosing your policy period. This is an important criterion, because your insurance coverage is only in effect during the period specified by the insurer in your policy. Most Auto Insurance policies cover a span from six months to one year. It is, however, possible to get Auto Insurance for a longer or shorter span of time. Generally speaking, the longer the time specified, the lower the premium you need to pay and vice-versa. Ultimately, the choice is left to you.

Attention! Find a good online discount Car Insurance broker before renewing. The Internet is a fabulous resource.

Always try to find out whether you can cancel your policy before the expiry date, and if so, what are the procedures that one must follow. You can get this information directly from your insurer. Based on the cheap Auto Insurance quote, you can decide whether you want to pay an annual or semi-annual premium upfront, a down payment on the premium and the reminder in several equal monthly installments, or you want to pay an equal monthly amount spread out over a period of 10 to 12 months. Also ask whether or not you insurer charges any interest on the premium. Once you have this basic information, it is easy to see what the best Auto Insurance for you will be - and you should go ahead and take that policy.

Attention! Drive carefully. Although it sounds a little trite to say it, your Car Insurance cost is a factor of your risk profile.

www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com 

Haggling: Give Yourself A Raise

Haggling: Give Yourself A Raise

by: David Wilding

Haggling was a way of life for Mr. B. I knew Mr. B because his son was one of my friends. His haggling greatly embarrassed my friend, but it didn't bother Mr. B. He was saving money.

Mr. B was a wonder. His distaste for paying retail was so ingrained he would bargain at the local fast food restaurant. Not attached to this man by blood, I felt no embarrassment, so I would watch with interest as he worked his magic with a retail price.

If you were there, this is what Mr. B would have taught you:

Be in command. Feel comfortable in the negotiation process. This will take practice. Start in an arena where haggling is a common and accepted practice. Go to a flea market or swap meet. Have some fun learning to haggle with the people you find there. After you have honed your skill you can have confidence as you move to haggling where the practice is less common.

Never be satisfied with the price marked. You are looking for a compromise. Any compromise leaves money in your pocket. A decent haggler can increase his purchasing power by 10-20%. That is like getting a 15-25% raise in your pay.

Always negotiate up. This may seem obvious but many a negotiator has paid too much. Choose a low price to begin with. You do not start at the price you are willing to pay. If you do, once you mention a price you are done. Start with a low, even ridiculous, amount. (This can be the most difficult part, but forget the embarrassment. Your goal and only goal is to get them engaged.)

As you haggle make your increases in price small. You never know when he or she will accept. There is no sense in placing money on the table you could have left in your pocket.

Never give up. Keep at it. Be sure to go into the negotiation fresh. Don’t fool yourself by thinking you are the first person to match wits with this seller and so he has no experience. You must not even give a hint you are weakening. A good seller can smell reticence and fatigue.

Dress the part. There are clothes to wear to work, to wear to church, and then there are clothes to wear when you shop. You want to be comfortable and you do not want to appear to have money. You can be far more effective if you look like the price you offer is truly all you can afford.

Never downplay the quality or desirability of the item you want. If the item is no good why do you want it? You need to downplay the price of the item. You want the item, just not at the price they are asking. It can be a good idea to mention you have seen it elsewhere for less. However, this can backfire if the item is truly one of a kind. Be careful, only a totally uninformed seller will not be aware of the scarcity of his item.

Make the haggling a two way negotiation only. You don’t want to enter a bidding war with a third individual. This can only cause the final price to be higher.

Select a point to stop. Since you had a price in mind before you began, you should never pay more for an item than the price you have set for yourself. You must be prepared to walk away if the negotiation cannot get you the price you want. Almost nothing is more effective than walking away from a protracted negotiation in which the seller has so much time invested. You will be surprised how often you will be called back for another round of haggling.

Now go make Mr. B proud. Get to work saving yourself some money and use it to pay down your debt.

www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com 

Selling A Used Car in Los Angeles the Successful Actor's Way

Selling A Used Car in Los Angeles the Successful Actor's Way

by: Jaime Mintun

Our city's reputation runs the spectrum from the "used actor" to the "used car Los Angeles." This bustling metropolis is as much defined by its dependence on vehicles and the entire vehicle industry as it is on Hollywood and the actors who man our restaurants and bars. In fact, there is 1 vehicle in LA for every 1.8 people. That's over 5 million cars, vans, trucks, and SUVs in the greater Los Angeles area!

Go to virtually any other major city and enjoy rich cultural encounters with the locals on subways, crowded streets, and buses. But come to Los Angeles, and you get to sit in traffic. So how is it that if LA is so densely populated with vehicles and people who need them, it's darn near impossible to get a good price for a used car?!

Perhaps it's because we spend more time in our vehicles than we do in our homes - and hence they have become our status symbols. And like an actor who gets his fifteen minutes of fame, only to be discarded and forgotten the next minute, our used vehicles simply have no place in the discerning spotlight.

But in my experience working with actors and other professionals to market themselves better, I'm convinced that marketing a used car isn't so different. Both are diamonds in the rough that just need to be polished and placed into the right hands - in front of the right pair of eyeballs. In this city, it's never about who you are, but who you know. Or who you can get in front of.

Get Your Used Car the Proper Representation

It's the rare exception to see an unknown actor hit the big screen, or land a huge gig, without representation. An agent, and sometimes a manager, are always a welcome necessity. Why? Because this city is run on connections. Like our bustling freeways, our careers and our cars can't get anywhere without following the right paths. Six degrees of separation here, four there.

It's a strange concept, but successfully and easily selling a used car in Los Angeles is almost entirely about securing the proper representative to appraise your vehicle and connect it with his or her network of interested buyers.

But What About Traditional Modes of Selling Your Used Car?

Well, you can try the classified ads, the auctions, the show and tell. But consider this: is the actor's dream to go on exhausting audition after audition, or to land the star agent who walks her right into Spielberg's next blockbuster? If you're serious about selling your used car, and doing so quickly without a lot of hassle, time, and money spent - well why would you pick the neverending hoopla of "auditions" with barely-interested sellers when you could get walked right into the top buyer's office?

How Much Will Used Car Representation Cost Me?

Well here's the great part. I mean, this is used cars we're talking about - not the next Brad Pitt. So there's no agent fee or expensive royalties. You can get your car representation for free. And have cash in your hand for that vehicle in less than 24 hours. I doubt you'd get such a great deal going to auctions or running expensive advertising alongside dozens of other cars that match your exact make and model.

How?

Well it's called an Auto Buying Service. These car experts meet with you to appraise your vehicle's worth and will then consult with their network of buyers. Within 30 minutes of your appraisal, they'll provide you a cash offer. Some services guarantee you'll get an offer higher than any dealer could offer you. Sounds like a pretty sweet deal to me.

So there you have it. Selling your used car in Los Angeles the actor's way may just be the sanest thing you've done for your vehicle and your own piece of mind.

www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com 

Tricking Out Your Dodge Ram SRT-10

Tricking Out Your Dodge Ram SRT-10

by: Matthew C. Keegan

Dodge's Ram SRT-10 is one heck of a powerful truck. Add in some nifty aftermarket features and the Viper is within its reach.

There are pick up trucks on the road and then there is the Dodge Ram SRT-10. Take one already powerful truck and add in a Viper engine and you come away with a vehicle that is truly the king of its class. DaimlerChrysler got it right when they decided to morph its popular Ram into a true road warrior able to haul people, stuff, and beat just about any car on the road. If you own a Ram SRT-10 you already know what I mean as you spend your time tricking out your truck for even more performance and enhanced looks. Before we go on, please note that there are two versions of the Ram SRT-10: one is the “standard” two door cab and the other is the quad cab. For argument’s sake, we’ll look at both Ram SRT-10 models as one.

Without exception the 510 horsepower 8.3L V10 is one powerful engine. For the faint of heart, the Ram SRT-10 just isn’t for you, but for the Dodge aficionado this steroid enhanced Ram more than meets your every fantasy. Or does it?

As it is with every performance oriented vehicle, a host of aftermarket parts have come along to enhance the driving experience. What, isn’t the Ram SRT-10 enough of a performance statement? For some drivers that answer is yes, but for others that answer is clearly no.

Passionate Ram SRT-10 owners are enhancing their rides with a variety of popular aftermarket products including:

Air Intake Systems – A cool air intake system such as the Volant Air Intake for the Ram SRT-10 is a hot selling item. Volant claims that you will receive a horsepower boost of 28 while adding 42 lbs. of torque to the rear wheels. Working with your truck’s engine, an air intake system helps to free up trapped air to allow the engine to operate more efficiently without adversely impacting fuel mileage. Enjoy more power and take in that awesome intake tone!

Cat-back Exhaust Systems – Another area where power is inhibited is through your vehicle’s exhaust system. A catalyst back [or cat-back] system such as one developed by Magnaflow Exhaust will boost horsepower and free up torque with its dual rear exit 3" mandrel bent stainless steel system and 4" slash cut polished stainless steel tips. The racecar rumble you hear coming from underneath the truck is truly a welcome bonus!

Computer Enhancements – The factory settings for your Ram SRT-10 are good, but they could be better. A Custom Computer Flash ECU can replace the stock computer with one that has been aftermarket enhanced. What that means is a simple swap out of your current computer with a new one which will result in more horsepower, better torque, and improved throttle timing for your truck. All you have to do is submit your SRT-10’s VIN #, modifications, and mileage and a custom designed ECU will be shipped to you.

If these aftermarket parts aren’t enough then there are always lowering kits, performance air filters, exhaust headers, and traction bars to consider, so why settle for less? Indeed, there is little to stop you from customizing your Dodge Ram SRT-10 to perform the way you want it to run even among other enhanced trucks in its class.

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Checking Out A Used Car

Checking Out A Used Car

by: John Sanderson

Nothing is quite as exciting as purchasing a new car. Even if it's a "used" new car. Don't get too caught up in the pretty shiny metal and chrome, it's what's under the hood that counts. Take a serious test drive before you make a decision. Used cars bought from a private owner don't have any warranty with them. You don't want to buy someone elses problem.

Do you homework. There is a lot of help available on line when you're purchasing a used car. You'll have the vin or vehicle identification number. With this number you can pull up a vehicle history through your state. Do a search for the model and year of your car online. Were there any specific complaints or call backs on this particular model?

The first place you should test drive this car is to your trusty mechanics shop. With a bit of notice he'll be glad to set a bit of time aside to go over the car with you. He'll take a look at your car with a keen and unprejudiced eye.

Take with you whatever service records are available on the car, these will help your mechanic understand the vehicles past. Your mechanic will check the hoses and belts and condition of the oil. These are easy fixes if they need changing or replacing. Your mechanic will check the radiator fluid for coolant level and to make sure the fluid is going to protect in severe cold conditions. He'll see how much oil, if any is present on the engine. Perhaps the car has been burning oil. He'll check the transmission fluid.

Another thing he'll check is the lights, inside on the dash, and outside to make sure they work. He'll check shocks, breaks and tires and alignment.

He'll take a look at the body. Is there any rust underneath on the frame? Does all the paint match, or has the car been repainted? Is everything in alignment? Do the doors open and shut properly?

Let your mechanic take the car out for a test drive. He may be able to pick up subtle things, perhaps a shutter or hesitation, or hear a sound that you may not. His is the best advice you're going to get in this situation.

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Replacing Worn Out Tires Is A Real Pain!

Replacing Worn Out Tires Is A Real Pain!


By: Robert Knechtel

OK - You've been putting off replacing those tread thin tires. Face it, replacing tires is a downright aggravating experience. Shopping for tires rests somewhere between doing your taxes or doing house cleaning. A dentist's waiting room, while you're hanging on anticipating that root canal, is unlikely to increase your anxiety. But, the bleak condition of most waiting rooms at tire dealers all too often propels us into an ambiance bordering on the repulsive.

Throughout our lives, the majority of us who drive will no doubt spend more than at least a day out of our lives marking time in a succession of these dismal dens. And then, we're left to pore over long outdated, pawed over magazines offering little worthy of our attention.

We tend to think of tires like we think of electricity. Electric power is taken as a given. Only if it shuts off, are we really forced to think about it. We're rudely reminded of our dependence on it when we lose it.

Our lack of consciousness about our tires is identical. Ignoring them seems to be the norm. All is well until we get a flat or blowout. All of a sudden we have to interrupt whatever we're doing. We can't get to a movie, miss picking up the kids or won't make yoga class. Or much more seriously, one of our tires gives out and causes an accident. It's not difficult to imagine any number of similar disruptions.

Fortunately, tire makers today are consistently improving tire performance and safety. Nevertheless, we, as car owners, have to cooperate. All things mechanical can only take so much wear and tear. Although excellent quality standards are built into tires today, they do have their useful life. It's up to us to provide ongoing maintenance in the form of correct tire pressure, regular rotation, proper alignment and balancing. Even though we may be scrupulous about tire maintenance, there will come a time when we simply have to replace them. We dread the root canal and we dread the tire dealer.

How about a little surprise? A lot of the aggravation in replacing tires can be bypassed.

To the rescue come the good people at websites such as The Tire Rack. Your computer becomes your tire store while you sip a cool beverage in the comfort of your home or office. That's right. All you need to do is log on. Now that's convenience you might not otherwise expect when buying tires.

Here's the rub. If you're shopping for Bridgestone, Michelin, Dunlop, Goodyear, Pirelli or any other major tire make, The Tire Rack maintains and ships a full inventory of tire sizes and models. An easy to use "search widget" will permit you to locate readily the right size and tire model for your make and year of car, truck or SUV. ATV tires are available, as well. You can peruse tire reviews.

There's more. The Tire Rack has made arrangements with tire dealers in your neighborhood to receive shipment and install them. If it's more convenient for you, The Tire Rack will ship to your office or home.

You'll want to consider these efficiencies when you buy tires online.

1. Save time shopping online.

2. You've selected the right tires.

3. No waiting at the dealer to complete the purchase.

4. Receive the tire maker's full warranty.

5. Less interruption to your busy schedule.

6. You're more likely to do it right now while you're thinking of it.

Wait! There's an even better idea. Have The Tire Rack mount your tires on a new set of wheels ready to stick on your vehicle. Very few things can rehab a worn looking jalopy better than a brand new set of tires and wheels.

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What Makes Classic Car Insurance Special

What Makes Classic Car Insurance Special

By: Gray Rollins

Anyone who owns a vintage vehicle or a collection of enduringly stylish classic cars knows that a standard automobile insurance policy can't adequately cover the specific needs of someone who drives a classic vehicle. A classic car owner is more likely than a standard driver to make a claim for repainting after a tiny scratch, for example; whereas a typical driver will be much more likely to get into a highway pile-up than a classic car owner. The habits and requirements of the drivers who spends time behind the wheel of a classic 1950s Ford are obviously quite different from those of a driver who gets around in a used 1997 Taurus; so it makes plenty of sense that insurance companies would create policies specifically for drivers who own vintage cars.

One of the most useful facets of many classic car insurance policies has to do with the idea of flexible usage. This unique idea allows drivers to attain full coverage at a variable rate depending on how often they drive their car and in what situations. Most drivers with antique automobiles drive their vehicles over less than one thousand miles each year, but some collectors drive up to five thousand miles a year in their prized cars. Some drivers are extremely careful about distance because of its potential wear and tear on the vehicle, but just as many classic car enthusiasts are more concerned about what kind of situation they are driving in than how far they are driving.

Many vintage car owners only take their precious vehicles out for special events like auto shows or parades, but there are some drivers who enjoy taking the occasional drive outside of the umbrella that these events provide. With an insurance policy that supports flexible usage, a driver can pay only for the coverage that he or she needs to cover his or her classic car driving habits. This means that a driver who enjoys a leisurely weekend afternoon of driving through town in his or her car will be able to do so without risking the investment that the car represents, but also that a driver who only starts the engine during a special event will not have to pay extra money for open road privileges that he or she won't use.

In addition to what is and is not covered, there are many conveniences that a classic car owner can enjoy by having classic car insurance instead of a standard auto policy. For one thing, having the agent who is responsible for the policy be knowledgeable about and sensitive to the needs of classic car owners can save quite a bit of hassle and phone time. Vintage car collectors are understandably very selective about where they get their cars repaired, and often will be unwilling to let anyone but their personally trusted mechanic look at their car. The reasons for this fact will be obvious to an agent who understands the needs and desires of people who own classic cars, but for an agent who is not experienced with these kinds of customers it can be a difficult fact to swallow.

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Motorcycle Wheel Repair

 Motorcycle Wheel Repair

by: Tim Gowens


Motorcycle wheels can be repaired just as easily as any other alloy wheel. The process is the same, but requires a different machine, because most motorcycle wheels have a "pressed in" barring that remains with the wheel.

As they say, necessity is the mother of invention. So Metro Wheels converted an old brake lathe to a state-of-the-art motorcycle wheel repair machine. All our hard work has been worth it, as the new custom repair machine allows for the barring that is pressed in and accommodates most wheel sizes. The wheel is centered on a shaft and then heated to ensure smooth movement under hydraulic pressure.

Repair vs. Replace

Why invest in motorcycle wheel repairs? Because replacing OEM motorcycle rims and wheels can range from $350 to $2,000 per wheel. So those who didn’t want to spend that kind of money began asking about having them "pressed" back out - and the motorcycle wheel repairs industry was born.

So long as safety isn’t an issue (that is, when a wheel can be repaired by a professional technician without jeopardizing the lives of the riders who are relying on the wheel to do its job), then alloy motorcycle wheel repair is an excellent choice for economy and cosmetic restoration. But when a wheel has been damaged severely, Metro Wheels will not compromise your safety: if there’s any question, we’ll err on the side of not repairing what could lead to serious injury.

Our Team of Experts

One of the better-known motorcycle wheel repair businesses in the country is Metro Wheels, Inc. in Marietta, Georgia, just north of Atlanta. Metro has one of the largest wheel repair facilities and wheel networking capacity in the country, with the expert team to repair alloy wheels quickly and safely.

At Metro Wheels, we teamed up with the sharpest engineers to design a state-of-the-art wheel repair facility. Our repair processes assure 95-100% wheel accuracy at completion.

Motorcycle wheel repair in the Atlanta area has been saturated with many companies claiming that they can fix any wheel. But the truth is that many of them are "fly by the night" companies with a sledgehammer and a torch. They can bend out a wheel, but most cannot check it for accuracy because they do not have a proper way of "spinning" the wheel. This is not the correct way to fix any wheel.

Some can make the wheel unsafe by not properly applying consistent pressures in a specific way with an exact heat. They stress crack the wheel beyond safety standards and call it a repaired wheel. But you could be jeopardizing your safety by using someone without proper experience.

Because we have been in business for over 15 years, our experience in motorcycle wheel repairs exceeds most shops’. Our aluminum wheel repair specialists can repair most wheels that have been curbed, scraped up, cracked or chemically damaged, providing excellent structural and cosmetic repairs; and our professional, certified welders are second to none.

Metro Wheels uses its own engineered equipment and guaranteed processes to return damaged, scraped and, in most cases, cracked wheels back to their original factory specifications. Because your safety is our highest priority, we will not repair any alloy wheel that cannot be safely ridden on after repair

Metro Wheels’ Repair Process

The repair process is straightforward. First, we mount the wheel accurately on a motorcycle axial simulator. With the proper heat, consistent hydraulic pressure and light vibrations under pressure, the alloy wheel will move - without cracking - back to its original condition. If there is a crack that can’t be seen by the naked eye (under chrome or paint), it will instantly pop out; our certified welders will then fill and repair the crack. After the wheel has cooled, it will retain its original strength. Heat, consistent pressure and vibration are key to an excellent wheel repair.

When a wheel is delivered to Metro Wheels, it is either dropped off by the owner, shipped in or picked up in the metro Atlanta area from our wholesale customers. We generate a work order for each individual wheel, detailing the customer’s information and any special instructions. Each wheel is assigned a unique work order number that is engraved on the inside of the rim, so that Metro can track its history precisely. This number also makes it much easier to track the wheel throughout the repair process.

Once identified, each wheel is washed thoroughly to remove all road dust and dirt, because the dust could be hiding additional scratches, gouges or cracks. Metro uses a pressure washer system with a diluted acid-based cleaning compound that will not damage a wheel’s existing finish.

This is particularly important because brake dust removal is essential to determining the level of damage to a wheel. But it must be done correctly, because wheels with a polished or anodized finish can be damaged if the wrong washing compound is used. For instance, a two-piece wheel with a bright lip that is not chromed is typically an anodized finish, a chemical treatment that is very hard to see. If the wrong cleaner or acid is used on such a finish, the wheel surface will be streaked; however, this anodized finish can be stripped off and any scratches buffed out.

Once thoroughly cleaned, one of our expert technicians performs a complete inspection of the wheel for radial and lateral runout. Radial runout is vertical, and Metro measures to see just how much the wheel is out of round with a micrometer gauge that measures to 1/1,000 of an inch. If a wheel has 5/1,000 of an inch radial runout, you could put a dial indicator on the wheel and then spin the wheel. The distance the wheel traveled up and down while spinning would be 5/1,000 of an inch both in the high and low position - or swing.

Lateral runout, on the other hand, is how much the damaged wheel will wobble from side to side. On some larger diameter wheels subjected to a hard pothole hit or curb, the wheel will be bent and, if hit hard enough, it will bend and twist the spokes. Most lateral runout can be corrected with pressure on the back of the wheel. But when the lateral runout cannot be corrected, the wheel is not repairable.

Lateral runout is the hardest type of repair to make. It also happens to be the most deceptive, because while a wheel may look like it has only minor rim damage, it can actually be fairly significant and not easily seen to the naked eye unless the wheel is spinning.

The next point of inspection is for alloy defects such as curb rashes and cracks. Metro recommends that the tires be removed for this inspection because most damage cannot be seen otherwise. Metro wheels will not remove the tire for you. You will need to have the tire removed and please keep the barring in the wheel (if it is loose). We will bring it back to its original condition ready to have the tire re-mounted. You will be riding again in no time.

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Where To Find Classic Car Parts

Where To Find Classic Car Parts

by: Joel Noah

Classic car parts are not easy to come by. But if you have finally been able to purchase the classic car you’ve always dreamed of, finding the classic car parts to restore and accessorize it may be a high on your priority list.

Whether you have a muscle car, an antique or a vintage model, you will inevitably find the need to replace and restore some of your car parts. Classic car parts are not as readily available as for the cars that are still in production. You can’t just walk into a dealership and place your order because the parts are no longer being made. But with a little digging, they can be found.

Some places to start your search include:

Online Auctions

Online auction sites, such as Ebay, are probably the easiest place to begin your search for classic car parts. If you’ve seen the ads that Ebay has “It,” you know this is true. Ebay Motors has many listings for hard to find vehicles and classic car parts. You’ll have to cover the shipping charges, so that is something to consider when purchasing larger items.

Swap Meets

Finding a local swap meet may be just the thing you need to locate the classic car parts you need. They are great places to find older model accessories and other outdated items.

Classic Car Part Dealer Publications

Often times you can find the parts you are looking for in car part dealer magazines. The only drawback here is that you will probably have to spend top dollar. This option could be used as a last resort though if you are unable to find a specific part anywhere else. Exhaust all other possibilities first if money is tight.

Clubs and Organizations

Clubs and organizations exist for as many hobbies that people can think up. Certainly, there are a fair number of clubs and organizations geared toward car enthusiasts. Locating and joining one such club may prove beneficial in your hunt for classic car parts. You will be able to make connections with other people who share your interest.

In the Internet age, it is also possible to find a club or organization centered on classic car parts by doing an online search. Try searching Yahoo groups and you are likely to find a list of clubs you could join. Again, making connections with people who share your interest in classic car parts may lead you to a dealer or another source from which you can purchase classic car parts.

Junkyards

Maybe you don’t picture yourself hanging around a junkyard to find used classic car parts, but you may be able to find a diamond in the rough. If you have never used this type of service before, it could be worthwhile to check it out. Everything is computerized and usually a visit or a phone call is all you need to check and see if they have the part or accessory that you need for your precious investment.

Of course you will want to take good care of your classic car to limit the number of parts that you will need to search for. The less time you spend tracking down parts, the more time you can spend enjoying the car of your dreams.

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Winterize Your Classic Car

Winterize Your Classic Car

By: Andrew Holliday


The mercury is dropping and the nights are drawing in. It’s time to start thinking about that ‘investment’ you so eagerly purchased over the summer. Ideally we would all garage our classic cars over the winter, not bringing them out again for their first wax and polish until the following spring. Unfortunately for many of us that is just not an option, so a little bit of preparation early on can save you a lot of heartache later. The two main things you should be thinking about are ensuring that your winter driving is as safe as possible and protecting your classic car from the harsh elements. Here are a few tips to get you on the right track.

Safer Winter Driving

1. Check your Antifreeze/Coolant. Make sure that the type you are using is sufficient for the climate you live in. Check the levels regularly; however always check when the engine is cold. Not only will you get a more accurate measurement but also opening a hot radiator is an extremely dangerous thing to do!

2. Check your tires. You’ll need good tread to get through 6 inches of snow. A change in temperature will make all sorts of parts on your car expand and contract. This includes the air in you tires. Ensure that they are inflated to the correct PSI (pounds per square inch) for your vehicle; this will not only help with traction but will extend the life of your tires. Also remember that the rubber your tires are made from will also contract. Check old tires for cracking and replace if necessary. It’s easier to do it now than on the side of the road in freezing temperatures!

3. Belts and hoses are also likely to expand and contract as the temperature changes. Check them over and change any that show signs of wearing or cracking.

4. Add a gas treatment. Over time water vapor can build up in your gas lines and will freeze when the temperature drops, blocking your fuel lines. A can of fuel treatment early on will remove the moisture and prevent this from happening.

5. Check the condition of your battery. Most auto parts stores and mechanics garages will do this for you free of charge. A hard to start engine can be impossible to start with an old battery, so replace if necessary.

6. Check your spark plugs. While your mechanic is checking your battery have him take a look at the plugs too. Corroded, oxidized or badly aligned spark plugs can also make it impossible to start the car in the morning.

7. Clean or replace your wiper blades. There are many brands of snow blades available that are designed not to stick to the windshield. Not all will work with older cars however, so at the very least, clean the ones you have with an alcohol based cleaner. Also check your washer fluid level and keep it topped up. Make sure to use a washer fluid that has some antifreeze in it.

8. Stock your car with some essential and emergency items.

· Flashlight (check the batteries!)
· Ice scraper
· Well stocked First Aid Kit
· A blanket, hat and gloves in case you brake down without the engine running and need to keep warm.
· Reflective triangle warning sign or flares
· Jumper cables

Protecting That Investment

1. Wash and dry your car regularly. The salt on the roads will wreak havoc on your bodywork and before you know it that cancer of all cars, rust, will be well and truly set in. So give it a good clean, underside included, as often as possible.

2. Check all fluids regularly; older cars and older gaskets have a habit of springing leaks throughout the winter months. It’s easier to top up the fluid than replace a major part that has seized up. If you find a constant leak, get it fixed or fix it yourself. You knew there would be a few running repairs when you bought your car, so no complaining about the cost. Remember it’s all about keeping that classic car on the road.

3. Apply a good wax early on. A good wax applied in several layers will help keep that ‘all original bodywork’ you paid so much extra for, in great shape come sun, snow, rain or shine.

4. Drive defensively. Just because you know you don’t have anti-lock brakes and traction control doesn’t mean everybody else does. Those one off parts are just as hard to come by regardless of whose fault it was they got wrecked in the first place. Drive with others in mind and try to think ahead. Remember you can’t think for the idiot in front of or behind you, but you can try and get out of the way if they come skidding towards you!

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How Pop-Culture Collectibles Can Increase Your Online Auction Profits

How Pop-Culture Collectibles Can Increase Your Online Auction Profits

by: David Espino

How Pop Culture collectibles can increase your Online Auction profits

With the increasingly competitive environment for products to sell in the online auction arena, sellers are getting more creative as to the items they purchase for re-sale.

While some of the Dutch Auction items that are frequently sold on eBay will always maintain their commodity status and always sell well, Pop Culture collectibles will usually generate a higher profit-per-item simply because of a combination of two forces.

Scarcity and Desirability.

Pop Culture collectibles can run the gamut from a special early edition pair of Levis to a rare Coca Cola collectible.

However, when I discuss Pop Culture items in this article, I will limit the definition to only the types of collectibles that I’ve managed to have any experience with and that would be T.V., Movie and Toy collectibles.

Obviously, the category of Pop Culture collectibles is much bigger than this limited definition, but in the interests of keeping this a knowledgeable article, I will focus on the limited definition here.

One of my first experiences with Pop Culture collectibles was with a box of unused "The Fonz" posters that I found at an antiques swap meet a few years ago.

I came across this box at a seller’s stand. It had one poster taped to the outside of the box and the price tag on the box said $5 each.

I asked the seller "How much are the posters?", not ever assuming that the price on the box was the current price.

The seller replied with "Three bucks each."

Being new to eBay and wanting to experiment, I counted the posters, which were still in shrink wrap material. There were 25 posters in the box. The box looked like it had been loaded and unloaded too many times, but the posters were in perfect condition.

So I asked the seller, "How much for the whole box?"

He asked, "How many are there?"

I told him, "25".

He said, "How about $40 for the box?"

I said, "O.K.", and handed him $40.

I posted an auction for one of the Fonz posters that week. It was a large photo of "The Fonz for Prez", sort of a campaign poster with Fonzie in his traditional Leather jacket, thumbs up and a "Sit on it" button on his jacket.

The auction was set to close on a Sunday, and when I checked it on Friday, it was up to $22 !

I was shocked and happy at the same time.

On Sunday, I took my family out to dinner and got home to see that the auction had closed at an astonishing $42.50 !

That experience was the one that cemented me in the area of Pop Culture collectibles!

I continued to sell the Fonz posters, one at a time (so as not to "flood the market") at prices from the $42.50 high to a low of $12.50.

My estimate for gross sales is somewhere around $450 for that box of posters.

This type of profit exists in the area of Pop Culture collectibles, but it does take some guts to seek out and "gamble" on these types of deals.

I had no idea what the posters were worth when I purchased them, but I had a good hunch, which proved to be correct.

Other Pop Culture deals I’ve made, most found at antique swap meets:

M.A.S.H. action figures - purchased a box of 28 of them for $50, sold them individually for between $9.00 and $15.50

Star Wars Figures - purchased a box of special limited edition figures for $120 at a regular swap meet, sold the box to a Star Wars dealer for $2,100.

Evel Knievel figure, mint in box, purchased for $10, sold for $115.

Alien 3 movie theater poster (massive, about 4’ tall by 12‘ wide), found at a yard sale for $10, sold on eBay for $50.

Bionic Woman action figure, mint in box, purchased for $30, sold for $85.

In each of these cases, I had no idea what the value was, I just went with my gut. But the fact that they were Pop Culture collectibles made it much easier to take that chance and buy the items.

Another solution many sellers use is to have their spouse at home, ready at the computer to do price research on unknown items!

Armed with a cell phone and a significant other at home doing research, your results will be less of a risk and more fun, too!

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